By Joe Tash
As our plane touched down in Helsinki, it felt as though we had stepped into the opening scene of a reality TV show. With less than 24 hours to explore this new city, excitement mingled with a sense of urgency—we had to make the most of our fleeting time here, before embarking on the next leg of our journey.
Under normal circumstances, I wouldn’t plan a trip where time was at such a premium. I usually relish the chance to settle in, unwind, and soak in the atmosphere over a few days, taking the opportunity to people-watch and visit key attractions at a leisurely pace.
However, this particular trip was the culmination of a month-long family adventure across Eastern Europe. We had chosen to fly Finnair from California, attracted by their unbeatable round-trip deals between Los Angeles and Budapest. When it came time to book our return, we were faced with the option of a 12-hour or a lengthy 23-hour layover in Helsinki, the airline’s hub. Recognizing that a mere 12 hours would hardly grant us the chance to step outside the airport, we opted for the overnight layover and booked a single night at a hotel in the city center.
In the weeks leading up to our departure, we had done our homework on Helsinki, and one fact stood out: the city boasts one of the highest per capita incomes in the developed world. To further round out our plans, we turned to the Lonely Planet’s Thorn Tree forum, where we sought advice on how best to spend our short time in this Finnish capital.
One kind user responded, “You can see all the main sights in Helsinki in one day. The city center is compact and easy to navigate; just make your way to the Kauppatori (market square). Helsinki truly comes alive in the summer, and while it can be a bit nippy, you’ll find many cafes and restaurants with outdoor seating along Esplanadi, perfect for soaking up the sun. Just be warned—expect to pay a premium for food and drink, especially if you’re coming from a place like Estonia.”
Upon arrival at the airport, our first stop was the tourist office, where we snagged one-day transit passes for my wife, our 15-year-old daughter, and myself for a little over $40. This turned out to be one of the best investments of our trip. The passes granted us access to Helsinki’s buses and trams, as well as the express bus to the city center and even the ferry to Suomenlinna Island, one of the city’s top attractions.
The airport bus was bustling with travelers, but within half an hour, it dropped us off at the main train station—a short five-minute stroll from our hotel, Hotel Arthur, where we had secured a triple room for $143. The hotel, while a bit worn, was clean and included a generous buffet breakfast, a welcome perk after a long journey. Traveling light, we had checked our bags all the way through, bringing only essentials, which was convenient for navigating the city—but it also meant we didn’t have a change of clothes for the layover, a choice that would prove questionable by day’s end.
By mid-afternoon, we were ready to venture out, armed with our transit passes and a tourist map marked with key sites by the hotel clerk. We hopped on a tram to Market Square, where we boarded a ferry bound for Suomenlinna, a UNESCO World Heritage Site featuring a fortress built by the Swedes in 1748 during their reign over what is now Finland.
As the ferry glided across the water, it buzzed with local families and tourists alike. Once we docked, we joined the crowd exploring the fortress’s remnants, picnicking on the greenery, and casting lines from rocky jetties. Along the island’s picturesque pathways, we stumbled upon a well-dressed group enjoying drinks before heading into a theater for a performance of “Peter Pan.”
Returning to the mainland, we meandered through Market Square, where a New Orleans jazz band added to the lively atmosphere. Nearby stood some of Helsinki’s iconic landmarks—Helsinki Cathedral, City Hall, and Uspenski Cathedral. We snapped photos but opted out of touring these impressive buildings, choosing instead to explore the city on foot.
As we made our way back to the hotel, we stopped for dinner at a Nepalese restaurant where we indulged in flavorful momos (dumplings) and curry, complemented by spiced chai tea. To cap off the evening, we rode the tram to Storyville, a jazz club on the opposite side of the train station. Instead of venturing into the club’s basement, we settled at the open-air café across from the venue, enjoying a nightcap while the sound of a saxophone floated through the warm summer air.
By this point, both our energy and euros were beginning to dwindle. As the travel forum had warned, the cost of living in Helsinki was a stark contrast to our experiences in Eastern Europe. A small glass of beer averaged around $8, a far cry from the $2 or $3 we had paid in Budapest or Sofia. In total, we managed to spend all of the $538 we had withdrawn, covering lodging, meals, transportation, and a few souvenirs over our brief stay.
As the night wore on, a sudden downpour caught us by surprise. A group of teens huddled beneath an overpass, and we made a soggy trek back to our hotel, relieved for the cooling rain that brought a break from the evening heat. The storm continued throughout the night, the rain rhythmically drumming against our window.
By morning, the skies had cleared. After a hearty breakfast, we set out in search of a clothing store and found some Finland-themed T-shirts at a kiosk in the train station for about $20 each. Before long, we were back on the airport bus, ready to catch our flight home, our minds still buzzing from our whirlwind adventure through Helsinki.
WHEN YOU GO
For more information about visiting Helsinki, check out Visit Helsinki or HSL.
Photos by Joe Tash.
- The bustling train station in Helsinki serves as a vital transit hub.
- Boats navigate the waters near Suomenlinna Island, a charming ferry ride from the city center.
- Uspenski Cathedral, with its rich history, stands as a testament to the Russian influence on Finnish architecture.
Joe Tash is a freelance travel writer. To explore more features by other Creators Syndicate writers and cartoonists, visit Creators Syndicate.