For as long as I can remember, I’ve dreamed of witnessing bears in their natural habitat. Despite their presence in numerous European countries—from the rugged terrains of Norway to the sun-soaked shores of Greece—these magnificent creatures are notoriously hard to spot.
To maximize my chances, I found myself in Finland, home to over 2,000 bears, particularly concentrated near the eastern border. In the summer, the long days extend to a remarkable 16 hours of daylight, providing ample opportunity for bear watching.
After touching down at Helsinki Airport, I embarked on a picturesque six-hour train ride from Tikkurila. The journey whisked me through the breathtaking Arctic Lakeland region, a landscape adorned with towering pine forests and shimmering lakes. My trip culminated in the quiet town of Kajaani, from where I took a short transfer to my ultimate destination.
At the Martinselkonen Wilderness Center, nestled alongside the Martinselkonen Nature Reserve, efforts are underway to preserve ancient forests while promoting sustainable wildlife tourism. Since taking the reins in 2016, Riina Nilsson-Määttä has transformed the center into a cozy retreat, offering simple yet inviting accommodations and outdoor adventures for nature enthusiasts.
With the nearest supermarket over 40 miles away and the Russian border just a stone’s throw off, we set out to the bear-watching hide. My guide, Maija Määttä—Riina’s daughter—suggested a brief detour. Contrary to my expectations of heavy security, barbed wire, and guards with automatic rifles, the border was marked merely by a few yellow flags. However, I was sternly warned that the area is heavily monitored; trespassers risk immediate arrest and imprisonment, especially now that the 800-mile land border between Finland and Russia has been closed indefinitely.
Keeping the imposing notion of the “Russian bear” at bay, we continued our pursuit of Finland’s more gentle brown bears. After a brisk half-hour hike, we arrived at a wooden hide tucked deep in the forest, where we were greeted by a surprising sight: a group of feeding male bears.
These magnificent animals were impressively hefty—males can weigh up to 200 kilograms—but thankfully seemed uninterested in our presence. Though brown bears can be territorial, particularly when cubs are involved, attacks in Finland are exceedingly rare; there has only been one fatal incident reported in the last century.
Thanks to our timely arrival during feeding, we managed to slip into the hide unnoticed. For safety reasons, we would remain there until morning, equipped with a row of bunk beds, a large tea urn, and packets of biscuits.
With a hearty dinner of ham sandwiches provided by Riina, I settled into one of the comfortable swivel chairs next to the expansive viewing window. Although the hide accommodates up to 12 guests, we had the entire place to ourselves, as it was still early in the season.
The hide, while basic and without electricity, exuded a sense of splendid isolation, enhanced by the soft glow of candles. As I made myself comfortable, more bears—a collective known as a “sleuth” or “sloth”—began to wander from the trees in search of food.
Feasting on meat scraps left by a park ranger, these omnivorous foragers typically subsist on a diet rich in berries, mushrooms, and green vegetation, with carrion only supplementing their meals. Interestingly, Finland is one of the few European countries where luring bears with bait for commercial viewing is legal, a practice that stirs debate. While some environmentalists argue it disrupts natural behaviors and fosters an unhealthy dependence on humans, supporters claim that eco-tourists and commercial hides actually provide a sanctuary for these bears.
The bears, it seemed, were simply in search of a meal. I watched, captivated, as they stood upright in a remarkably human-like manner, using their front paws to scoop up dinner. Surprisingly agile for their size, they adeptly climbed skinny pine trees.
The younger, bolder bears approached the glass, just inches from my face, while the adults engaged in playful chases.
My visit coincided with the onset of mating season, which spans from mid-May to early July; females give birth while they are still hibernating through the winter. Before hibernation, they consume vast quantities of energy-laden berries, building up fat reserves to sustain them through the harsh months.
Interestingly, Maija explained that male bears tend not to stay around once cubs are born and may even threaten them to urge females back into heat.
Returning to the hide for a second night deepened my understanding of the bears’ routines. Naturally crepuscular, these brown bears are most active at dawn and dusk, prompting our viewing schedule to align with their behavior. Around 5 PM, the large, dominant males typically appeared first to stake their claim, followed by females and younger bears, who would cautiously enter the feeding area. They would linger for hours before disappearing back into the woods, allowing for plentiful photo opportunities, though I found myself more inclined to simply savor the moment.
Back at the Wilderness Centre, after bidding farewell to the bears, I was treated to hearty Finnish stews and homemade beer, along with access to a sturdy fatbike for exploring the picturesque lakeside trails. During a guided walk to the enchanting Lintulampi Lake, I spotted a herd of reindeer and even a solitary moose.
An hour’s drive north, in the stunning Hossa National Park, I discovered one of Finland’s most treasured archaeological sites: the Värikallio Rock Paintings. This remarkable rock face features over 60 depictions of animals, hunting scenes, and spiritual rituals that date back thousands of years and can be appreciated from an observation platform.
Yet, it was the charmingly enigmatic brown bears that linger in my memory. Observing them up close in their natural environment was a humbling experience, and I hold onto the hope that they will continue to thrive in this beautifully remote, unspoiled corner of the world.
How to get there
Finnair offers return fares from Heathrow to Oulu via Helsinki starting at £441.
Where to stay
The Martinselkonen Wilderness Centre’s two-night Bear Photography Hide experience is available from €440 per person, including meals, guiding, and accommodations at the center and in the hide.