The setting is a monochrome masterpiece, painted in black, white, gray, and silver. An unusual chill hangs in the air, as ice begins to creep onto the surface of the lake. I find myself alone in an unlit wooden sauna, enveloped by a profound silence, interrupted only by the gentle ticking of the stove as it warms the space. Across the water, ethereal silver birches stand guard beside dark pines, while Orion’s Belt twinkles brightly above. This surreal scene evokes images of midwinter in Canada or Finland, making it oddly surprising that I’m just a few miles southwest of Great Yarmouth.
Fritton Lake is something of an anomaly. Like its northern neighbor, the Broads, this winding, expansive body of water was shaped by medieval peat extraction, yet it bears little resemblance to those familiar Norfolk landscapes. Nestled within sandy, hilly terrain abundant with heaths and pines, it serves as the northernmost reaches of the wildlife-rich strip of sandy heathlands along the Suffolk coast. At two miles long and deceptively deep, Fritton Lake remains obscured by trees, rendering it nearly invisible to passersby.
In the last five years, Fritton Lake has undergone a remarkable transformation thanks to an ambitious rewilding initiative. Landowner Hugh Somerleyton, a co-founder of WildEast—a national movement urging individuals to dedicate at least 20% of their gardens, parks, or farms to rewilding—has committed a quarter of his vast 2,020-hectare (5,000-acre) estate to this cause. The lake and its surroundings embody Somerleyton’s contribution while he continues to farm the remainder regeneratively.
My family and I journeyed here for a winter weekend, seeking an escape into nature on the edge of far-eastern England. Arriving after nightfall, my initial impression was simply one of darkness, a stark absence of suburban lighting or signage. We eventually located our self-catering cottage, among a variety of lodgings that include modern wooden cabins (some with hot tubs) and cozy B&B rooms in a transformed pub that now serves as both a holiday retreat and an exclusive members’ club.
Our first evening culminates in a quiet, private 30-minute session in the lake’s enchanting floating sauna. The space between the pub and sauna features courts for tennis, basketball, football, cricket, croquet, pétanque, and pickleball. At the lakeside, you’ll find canoes, kayaks, rowing boats, and paddleboards scattered about. Strolling past the outdoor 22-meter heated swimming pool, which feels reminiscent of a scene from a 1960s Cliveden pool party—complete with fire pits at either end—I see a solitary swimmer gliding through steamy waters under the cold night sky.
The following morning, I awaken to a silence so profound it seems to swallow everything around me. As flocks of jackdaws and rooks soar overhead, we take a stroll through the rewilded grasslands toward the pub for a hearty breakfast. Post-meal, my son Ted and I embark on a “Fritton safari,” guided by Matthew, a fast-talking botanist-horticulturist-entomologist-mycologist who hails from East London. We board an old-fashioned, cream-colored motorboat and glide slowly across the lake, a haven not just for swimmers but for pike, eels, and seasonal visitors like teals, shelducks, and egrets. An osprey occasionally hunts here in summer, and the nearby habitats are home to various species of owls and six endangered amphibians.
On the far side of the lake, a wildlife area awaits, accessible only via guided tours (and to scout groups). Matthew drives us in an open-sided 1976 Austrian Pinzgauer 4WD through the woods, where we stumble upon a dramatic sight—a pair of enormous black pigs, semi-hidden under a pine, appear like shadowy forms. Somerleyton has “retired” these animals to this tranquil setting; their rooting resembles that of wild boar, enriching the ground and encouraging wildflower growth. In summer, former arable fields bloom with oxeye daisies. All around us, long-horned Highland cattle roam freely, while a buzzard calls from above.
Ted’s sharp eyes spot a muntjac and a fallow deer before Matthew suddenly halts, barely containing his excitement. “King Conan’s sons!” he whispers fervently as two magnificent red deer stags cross our path—albeit not quite as impressive as King Conan himself. “They are the princes,” he adds, as they glance our way, seemingly untroubled by our presence, just 15 meters away.
On our return journey across the lake after an enchanting three-hour exploration, two kingfishers flit around our boat, their vibrant orange and turquoise feathers a breathtaking contrast against the dark water.
Later that evening, I arrive at the pub for dinner donned in my Dryrobe, much to my kids’ chagrin. But in this unique setting, it feels entirely appropriate. Following an extraordinary steak meal featuring fresh, local produce and ample vegetarian options, I prepare for another sauna session while an owl hoots softly on our walk back to the cottage.
On Sunday morning, I rise before dawn to visit Carlton Marshes, a nature reserve managed by the Suffolk Wildlife Trust, just a 20-minute drive away. The sunrise transforms the expansive sky into hues of pink, as I traverse the seemingly endless marshes of the Waveney, with only the silence of frost-kissed reeds for company. A curious Chinese water deer, its teddy bear ears at attention, observes me as I navigate the reserve, which is a sanctuary for rare dragonflies and the spectacular fen raft spider in warmer months. Though this coastal region is flanked by the bustling towns of Great Yarmouth, Lowestoft, and nearby villages, Gorleston-on-Sea offers a pleasant stroll along its sandy beach, accented by a salty breeze and seabirds in flight.
Later in the day, while my wife, Lisa, enjoys a yoga class, I return for a final sauna session. Inside, I find a lively group of regulars reminiscing about the need for additional saunas on the estate. I step out briefly to dip into the lake, relishing in the invigorating shock of the icy water.
As we make our way home, the frenetic energy of our arrival has waned, a clear testament to the rejuvenation experienced over the weekend—a canvas of breathtaking light, unspoiled landscapes, cold waters, warm hospitality, and the enchanting soundscape of this wild, wintry enclave in the east.
This trip was provided by Fritton Lake. Clubhouse rooms start at £130; two-bedroom cabins from £275.