Exploring Haapasaari Island: A Family Adventure by Ferry
Haapasaari Island is one of those hidden gems that can be reached for free via a scheduled commuter ferry service. The M/S Otava departs from Kuusinen Harbor, with a scenic two-hour journey across the enchanting waters of the Eastern Gulf of Finland National Park. Recently, my family and I embarked on this adventure, spending a delightful two hours on the island before we had to return.
Registering for the Commuter Ferry
While the ferry ride is completely free, it’s essential to register in advance. This isn’t a complicated process; on our trip, I managed to register all six of us in one go. It’s simply a way for the crew to know how many passengers will be boarding and disembarking at each stop. There are no tickets to deal with, and no personal information is required—just a quick headcount.
For convenience, I recommend registering online through the Finferries website. The booking system is straightforward and displays all the necessary journey details, including date, departure harbor, destination, and relevant times. After dealing with convoluted timetable tables in the past, I found this approach refreshingly clear.
Departure from Kuusinen Harbor
Our adventure started on a sunny day that followed a week of blustery weather—perfect conditions for a seaside outing. Upon arriving at the harbor, we were relieved to find ample unrestricted parking, especially after our early morning drive from Salo.
A short walk from our car led us to the departure point, shared with a handful of other eager travelers. As the M/S Otava glided into the jetty, we were ready to begin our sea voyage at nine o’clock.
Perhaps it was the timing of our trip—many locals were likely preoccupied with graduation celebrations—but the ferry was surprisingly uncrowded. We easily found seats under the warm sun, with most of the cabin benches also empty. A few well-behaved dogs lay quietly beneath the tables, adding to the relaxed atmosphere as we set sail.
Shortly after leaving Kotka Harbor behind, a curious sight emerged on the horizon—a distant row of hills that shimmered against the blue sea. My map app helped identify this intriguing silhouette as Gogland, formerly part of Finland and now under Russian sovereignty. Standing on the deck, I felt a mix of nostalgia and frustration as I gazed at its otherworldly beauty.
Arriving at Haapasaari
Two hours later, we arrived at Haapasaari. As the ferry docked, I was immediately taken by the rocky shores, dotted with large boulders instead of the smooth bedrock typically found in the Archipelago Sea.
The handful of fellow passengers quickly dispersed in various directions—some were island residents, while others were clearly tourists, possibly guided by locals. We chose to explore on our own, following the village path, which we hoped would lead us to the island’s shop, rumored to be open.
Walking the Village Path
The village path we followed resembled a quad-bike track, with stretches that were smooth rock and others that were gravelled. As we walked, we were reminded of the intimacy of Haapasaari. The line between public and private spaces blurred; gardens and homes were interwoven with the natural landscape, inviting us to take a closer look at everyday island life.
Surprisingly, many of the dwellings are full-sized houses rather than mere summer cottages. This richness in architecture caught us off guard, along with the numerous sheds and outbuildings. As visitors, we were mindful of our behavior, respecting the local residents’ privacy while ensuring our own pets were leashed.
After a brief walk, we discovered a Pro Patria memorial honoring minesweepers, followed by the village shop, where we found a bustling terrace filled with locals and tourists savoring the beautiful Saturday.
Signposts around the shop pointed to local landmarks, including the church and school further along the path, as well as several neighboring islands. We took a moment at a picnic table for a quick snack before continuing our exploration.
Discovering the Church and Surroundings
As we approached the church, it became clear that this was no mere chapel; it stood as a testament to the island’s history and community spirit. Built in 1858, the church was accompanied by an old schoolhouse now providing accommodations.
The guest harbor nearby, however, was what truly caught my attention. While scanning the area for a swimming spot, I noted there didn’t seem to be one. If anyone knows of a public beach on the island, I welcome your comments! The harbor itself was lively, with water voles scuttling beneath the jetty and a nesting pair of horned grebes fiercely defending their territory from a common gull.
In between the church and the harbor, I found an informative board detailing the island’s history, including stories of the local pilots and the region’s fishing and trading heritage. It’s worth diving into this background by visiting the island’s own website to learn more about the iconic Thistle tower—a striking structure that dates back to 1862 and is currently employed by the Finnish Defense Forces.
Concluding Our Day
As time slipped away, we made our way back, stopping at the shop for some refreshing ice cream to enjoy under the shade of the trees by the rocky shoreline. The M/S Otava awaited us as we strolled to the dock, allowing us to board a little over fifteen minutes before departure. While I had packed my swimming gear, it remained unused this time—a wise precaution, perhaps.
Back on the mainland, we took a leisurely stroll through Sapokka Water Park, located just a short distance from our parking spot. But that, dear readers, is a tale for another time!
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Explore a summer trip to Isokari Lighthouse in the Bothnian Sea National Park, or journey with us to Jurmo Island as spring arrives at this remote destination.
For a quieter retreat, don’t miss discovering Pirttisaari, a hidden gem in the Porvoo archipelago.