Water sprays against our faces as laughter erupts from my side. Our raft careens towards a boulder, narrowly veering away at the last moment, plunging us into the vibrant rush of the rapids.
This morning, on the banks of the Kitka River near Käylä—perched close to the Arctic Circle—Wilderness guides Tuomas Törmänen and Joonas Koskinen prepared our group for the adventures that lay ahead.
Experienced guides like Tuomas Törmänen (left) offer an essential briefing before we embark on our river journey.
Seven rapids await us, all suitable for novice adventurers. Safety is paramount.
“Keep your hands and feet inside the raft at all times,” Törmänen instructs firmly. “And paddle only when I direct you.”
With life jackets secured, helmets fastened, and boots tightened, we are ready for the plunge.
First Rapids, First Screams
Known for its snowy winters, Kuusamo also invites summer visitors to relish in the prolonged embrace of the Midnight Sun.
“Oh wow! This is better than any amusement park ride!” exclaims ten-year-old Luukas.
The first rapid, Käylänkoski, has already passed. It’s long and relatively tame, but exhilarating for someone more accustomed to solid ground. I must admit, I spent a good part of it paddling with my eyes squeezed shut.
As the initial rush subsides, the river reveals its tranquil beauty. Pine forests, sandy banks, and crystal-clear waters invite our gaze, with fish darting beneath the surface. Whimsical summer cottages peek out from the trees lining the shore.
Just south of the Arctic Circle, Kuusamo is easily accessed by plane or bus.
Throughout Finland’s pristine lakes, rivers, and rapids, outdoor enthusiasts flock to experience nature’s wonders. Around Kuusamo, tourism operators like Basecamp Oulanka—our guides for the day—ensure safety and enjoyment for all adventurers.
This summer, Luukas has journeyed to Kuusamo with his family to share holiday moments with his grandparents. The family has long debated the thrill of rafting, especially since their mother has tackled far more daunting rapids throughout Europe.
Now that the children are old enough, it’s the perfect opportunity for three generations to embark on this adventure together.
“I can’t wait for the biggest rapids!” says 12-year-old Mai, her eyes wide with anticipation.
Spinning Through the Whitewater
Kuusamo offers rafting experiences for every level of skill, with the simplest routes requiring no prior experience.
As we near Peurakoski, the next rapid, a goldeneye duck suddenly takes flight nearby.
We paddle energetically until Törmänen calls out, “Let go!”
All paddles are drawn into the raft as the boat sways sideways into the roar of the rapids. The raft bounces erratically and spins with the current, water splashing over us, laughter mixed with screams echoing in the air.
Then, just like that, calm returns.
Arto Kajava (left) grew up in Kuusamo, where his grandchildren Nooa and Mai love to explore the wilderness.
Eleven-year-old Noah shakes the water from his soaked boot back into the river.
During the rafting season, Törmänen guides around 100 trips down these routes, nimbly navigating the area’s rapids and ridges that he knows like the back of his hand.
Originally from this region, he briefly lived in southern Finland but returned north, drawn back by the call of a “proper winter.”
“I missed it. This is where I belong,” he tells us with a smile.
Facing the Toughest Rapids
Did someone fall overboard? Not exactly—one of our adventurers just decided to cool off!
Törmänen revs the raft’s motor as we cross the calmer stretches of the river. By this point, navigating the uncharted waters feels almost second nature.
Then comes Harjakoski, the wildest rapid of the day.
Rated a grade III on the international scale, this stretch promises steep drops, towering waves, and a turbulent ride ahead.
Nervousness ripples through the group. Phones and cameras are ensconced in waterproof bags, and everyone adjusts their boots firmly.
“Paddle!” Törmänen shouts above the din of the water.
As the raft lunges forward, waves crash around us, and my stomach drops with the thrilling plunge.
And just like that, it’s over. A wave of relief sweeps through the raft.
A Perfect Ending
Even late into the evening, the northern sky remains illuminated.
Post-rapids, many of us leap into the river for a refreshing swim. The water, a pleasant 20 degrees Celsius (68 degrees Fahrenheit), feels invigorating against our skin.
While many travelers flock to Lapland for its enchanting winters, the northern summer remains a hidden gem. Here, one can find gentle warmth, limitless daylight, stunning nature, and—most importantly—an enveloping silence.
Mai shares hopes of returning to the rapids with her family soon.
Arto Kajava helps his grandson Luukas back into the boat after a refreshing dip.
By the time we reached the village of Juuma, we had traversed 14 kilometers (8.7 miles) along the river’s winding course.
“This was so much fun!” Luukas beams.
“We’re definitely coming back next summer,” Mai adds, her enthusiasm palpable.
On the shore, two reindeer lounge lazily under the warm sun.
Kuusamo and the Kitka River
In the far north of Finland, summer reveals a world waiting to be explored.
- Located in Northeastern Finland, Kuusamo lies just south of the Arctic Circle.
- This region is renowned for its lush forests, winding rivers, and expansive hiking trails brimming with outdoor activities year-round.
- Rafting routes here cater to every skill level, from family-friendly floats to more challenging expeditions.
- During midsummer, the Midnight Sun casts an enchanting glow across northern Finland, with only a few hours of twilight gracing Kuusamo.
Text and photos by Emilia Kangasluoma, July 2026