In February, I checked off a significant item from my bucket list: witnessing the Aurora Borealis, more commonly known as the northern lights. These mesmerizing displays of color result from charged particles emitted by the sun colliding with Earth’s upper atmosphere, creating stunning light shows that grace our planet’s poles. Although auroras can technically occur year-round, they are most visible during the long, dark winter nights of the polar regions.
My adventure took me to Utsjoki, Finland’s northernmost municipality, located approximately 280 miles above the Arctic Circle. The journey was no small feat, requiring two flights from New York to Ivalo, Finland—via Helsinki—and a two-hour drive deep into the snow-blanketed terrain of Lapland.
In this secluded village, I booked my excursion through Aurora Holidays, a tour company that boasts remarkable expertise in viewing the auroras. For around $2,000, I secured guides, full room and board, a village tour, reindeer feeding, a king crab fishing trip in Norway, and a thrilling dog sledding experience—although I should note that prices have increased since my booking. Flights on Finnair added another $1,000 to my travel budget.
Aurora Holidays claims a 100% success rate over five years in helping visitors see the northern lights, thanks largely to the minimal light pollution in the area. Happily, my visit continued that trend.
Here are four essential tips if you’re considering a journey to witness the auroras yourself—and why I recommend heading as far north as you can, despite the frigid temperatures and a bit of luck being required.
### Location, Location, Location
While recent environmental changes have allowed for aurora sightings as far south as England and Denmark, the best views are found well within the Arctic Circle.
However, these northern locations are often hard to access. Popular destinations like Fairbanks, Alaska, Tromsø, Norway, and parts of Canada’s Northwest Territories fall below the 66° 34′ N latitude that traditionally defines the region. Tourists can often find themselves surrounded by light pollution, forcing them to travel farther afield to truly experience the lights.
Utsjoki, on the other hand, offers complete darkness during the long polar nights. My accommodation was perfectly positioned facing north across Lapland, allowing me to witness the auroras right from my cabin porch.
As Tiina Salonen, the owner of Aurora Holidays, told me during the tour, “A lot of people don’t know that in order to maximize your chances of seeing the lights, location matters. The rule of thumb is that the further north you travel, the less solar activity you need to have lights in the sky.”
Other excellent viewing spots within the Arctic Circle include Abisko National Park in Sweden and Ilulissat, Greenland.
### Pack for Below-Zero Temperatures
During my visit, temperatures plummeted to a bone-chilling -8°F—colder even than my time in Antarctica. Luckily, my previous polar expeditions had taught me the importance of effective packing.
I dressed in a merino wool base layer from REI, favored for its moisture-wicking properties. Layering with a fleece pullover and a Kathmandu puffer, I topped it off with a 600-fill jacket. Snow pants, ski gloves, wool socks, a fleece buff, a beanie, and sturdy hiking boots completed my ensemble.
The combination of these layers kept me comfortably warm while watching the lights. I also recommend bringing hand and foot warmers, especially if you plan to partake in winter activities like snowshoeing.
Bear in mind that traveling to remote areas like northern Lapland places you far from proper medical facilities—the closest hospital to Utsjoki is a several hours’ drive away. Proper attire is crucial for avoiding frostbite or illness, along with having travel insurance for added safety.
### The Colors of the Night Sky
Not every hue of the northern lights is visible to the naked eye. During my excursion, I observed vivid streaks of green and white, but the photographs taken on my iPhone revealed a far broader spectrum of colors, including pinks, reds, and purples.
Tiina explained that cameras can capture more light than our own nocturnal vision allows, translating into more intense colors in photographs.
I’ll admit the auroras were a touch fainter than I had anticipated, but the beauty was undeniable. Some travelers might find themselves disappointed, as social media can often portray a grander spectacle.
### Embrace the Element of Luck
During my six-day, five-night tour in Utsjoki, I caught sight of the auroras just once—a reminder of the real challenge in chasing these ethereal lights. That particular night was clear, and solar activity was strong, allowing the enchanting green beams to dance across the sky. On other nights, however, cloud cover obscured any chance of witnessing the spectacle.
“The lights are there, but if it’s overcast, we can’t see them,” Tiina remarked. I experienced the same phenomenon in Ivalo, where, despite the online trackers indicating auroras, thick clouds prevented any views.
Sometimes, tour companies can drive to dark pockets where the auroras might be visible, but it’s not guaranteed. This unpredictability underscores the importance of managing expectations before embarking on such a journey. As Tiina succinctly put it, “Even here in Utsjoki, we cannot guarantee the lights—it’s a natural phenomenon, and Mother Nature is in charge.”