A Hike Through Time: The Värikallio Loop in Hossa National Park
On a gray July day brimming with humidity, my husband, a friend, and I embarked on a long-awaited journey to the Värikallio Loop trail in Hossa National Park, located in the picturesque Kainuu region of Finland. Despite keen forecasts of heavy rain, we had resolved not to let the weather dampen our spirits; it had been years since our last visit to this beloved destination, and fortunately, the rain held off, merely teasing us with a light drizzle.
Driving along a narrow, potholed gravel road, we arrived at the Lihapyörre parking area, greeted by an encouraging sight: only one car was already stationed there—peaceful and quiet, just how we liked it.
The Värikallio Loop Trail
- Distance: 8 km loop
- Starting Point: Lihamyörre parking area
- By Car: Accessible via a northern branch off Pistonlehdontie; simply follow the signs.
- By Public Transport: Unfortunately, there are no options available.
- Facilities: Two lean-to shelters and a cooking shelter for visitors.
- Accessibility: The first 200 meters to the Lihapyörre lean-to shelter are accessible.
Entering the Enchantment of Lihapyörre
We set off counterclockwise, and it wasn’t long before we reached Lihapyörre, aptly meaning “meat whirlpool” in Finnish. This spot on the Somerjoki River has a whirlpool effect that, back in the 1800s, was ingeniously used to keep meat fresh—an odd legacy that makes a vegan like me wrinkle my nose! Nevertheless, the natural beauty surrounding us was undeniable, and the sense of untouched wilderness that Hossa is renowned for greeted us warmly. A lean-to shelter graced the riverbank, complete with a scenic viewing terrace.
As the accessible stretch of the trail ended, we encountered a steep ascent into the dense forest. It had been ages since we last saw our friend, and as we settled into the hike, we reveled in catching up amid the natural wonder around us. Tall spruces draped with lichen loomed overhead, while clusters of black-and-white dwarf cornel flowers dotted the landscape. Despite the presence of a few pesky mosquitoes, they were easily kept at bay as we kept moving along the rocky and root-strewn path.
Discovering the Lower Ölkky Lean-to Shelter
Our next respite was the Ala-Ölkky lean-to shelter, which we found unoccupied. The gentle flow of water nearby imparted a serene atmosphere as we reminisced about past adventures, including a cherished boat trip to the nearby Julma-Ölkky Gorge lake.
By this point, the call of my morning coffee had become urgent, and fortuitously, a quaint log-built outhouse awaited us, nestled discreetly among the trees.
As the path led us along a high ridge, breathtaking views unfolded; the steep drop to the water below made us cautious about leaning too far over the edge. After navigating around a round tarn, we finally arrived at the cooking shelter at Värikallio.
A Brush with History: The Rock Paintings
From the cooking shelter, a 300-meter spur trail led to the famed rock paintings. Crossing a wooden footbridge, we took our time, absorbing the stunning vistas on either side as the dark waters of the river flowed rhythmically below us.
The moment we entered the area with the rock face, a metal walkway overhung the water—a clever design enabling easy observation of the ancient artworks. Here, I mentioned the existence of a horned figure among the paintings, and my husband, with keen eyes, spotted it almost immediately. The paintings—dated between 3,500 and 4,500 years old—depict animals and human figures, many of which were surprisingly distinct and easy to identify. The horned figure is believed to represent a Shaman in ceremonial dress, lending an almost magical atmosphere to the surroundings.
A Moment of Confusion, Then a View From Above
After leaving the rock paintings, we found ourselves slightly disoriented. The loop trail continued past the shelter, seamlessly following the shoreline, but we inadvertently took a wrong turn. After a brief navigation hiccup aided by a phone map, we regained our bearings.
As we ascended a long staircase, the exertion echoed our excitement. At the top, a sign beckoned us to a viewpoint just 300 meters away. Curiosity propelling us forward, we were rewarded with an extraordinary panorama of Lake Somer, framed by lush forests and the distant sight of Värikallio’s own viewing platform.
The return journey turned into a more straightforward trek along a wide forest path. With the morning’s exertions catching up to us, we welcomed the simplicity of the trail as we made our way back toward the parking area, grateful that the forecasted rain had mostly held off.
Reflections on the Journey
By the time we reached our car, thoughts of lunch occupied our minds. A simple but satisfying meal of noodles and soy protein awaited us—delicious after a day spent in the beauty of Hossa.
Reflecting on our experience, I could fully appreciate the wonder of the Värikallio trail, particularly the captivating rock paintings. While I had initially imagined spending my time in Hossa snorkeling, the unexpected detour into hiking had proven itself just as rewarding.
For those new to Hossa, while the rock paintings offer a unique draw, I’d recommend also exploring trails that hug the water’s edge, such as the Laukkujärvi or Kokalmus loops. For those looking for a shorter, easier route, Muikkupuro comes highly recommended as well.
But if it is the allure of ancient forests carpeted in lichen and the echo of history that calls to you, then the Värikallio Loop is a path worth every step.