It’s just past 10 PM, and the sky is finally shedding the vibrant blue that cloaked the day. Perched beside the Baltic Sea, my toes dip into the cool water as I gaze out at the faint outlines of distant, tree-clad islands, their shapes softened by the gentle caress of lapping waves against the smooth, flat rocks. I trace a meandering path back to my cabin, slipping through a tranquil wood where the only sound is the whisper of pine needles drifting to the forest floor.
Here in the Santalahti woods, near Kotka on Finland’s southeast coast, I find myself retracing the footsteps of the esteemed Finnish author and artist Tove Jansson (1914-2001). Best remembered as the visionary behind the beloved Moomins, Jansson was also a gifted writer for adults. Last year, her first novel, *The Summer Book*, hit the silver screen with Glenn Close starring under the direction of Charlie McDowell. One film critic aptly dubbed it “an ode to Finnish archipelago nature.”
*The Summer Book* is a collection of 22 vignettes that illuminate the essence of island summer life, featuring a young girl named Sophia and her grandmother. I first encountered this delicate volume in the early days of the COVID-19 lockdown, when the world felt uncertain and heavy. Each year since, revisiting it has been like applying a comforting balm—an invitation to slow down and take notice. Now, I’ve come to Finland in search of that same tranquility and a breath of the archipelago air that Jansson so vividly celebrated.
In Finland, summer is an experience to be cherished. With only six hours of daylight in the southern regions during winter and the relentless darkness of December in the far north, Finns honor their brief, sunlit months. Children relish a ten-week summer break, and most adults embrace July as a month off from work. Their summers often revolve around *mökki*—summer cottages nestled by tranquil lakes or scattered across thousands of islands along the coastline.
The amenities at these cottages vary, but there’s a profound appreciation for the traditional rustic kinds—off-grid, without electricity, running water, or any trace of WiFi. *Cottage life* centers on enjoying life at a steadier pace and in harmony with nature, whether that means wandering through woods, swimming in the sea, berry picking, or immersing oneself in the warmth of a sauna.
I begin my expedition on Pellinki, one of the islands in the Porvoo archipelago, a short hour’s drive east from Helsinki. Here, Finnish and Swedish coexist harmoniously; much like Tove Jansson, who primarily spoke Swedish, over 80% of Pellinki’s residents carry the same mother tongue. It’s only a brief ferry ride across the water, yet it feels like stepping into a languid, timeless world. As I wander through the woods, I spot dozens of charming red and yellow cabins, each cozily tucked beside a patch of water.
Tove spent many summers here as a child, even crafting her first Moomin comic on the wall of an outhouse during her teenage years. Island families would rent their homes to summer visitors, often moving into outbuildings themselves. Tove’s family was one of these, taking up residence in the home of the Gustafsson family, where she formed a lasting friendship with Abbe Gustafsson. Their childhood chore of collecting milk transformed into a delightful adventure, as they navigated trees, leaped over streams, and dodged “evil” cracked rocks.
This spirited childhood game sparked the creation of *The Book about Moomin, Mymble and Little My*, and has since been transformed into the island-hopping puzzle-solving trail known as *Island Riddles*. As I participate, I find myself filtering water to reveal the next clue hidden in a small well, and searching for a bright red umbrella nestled in the trees. “Just play like a child and let your imagination roam,” Erika Englund, the local designer of this creative adventure, advises.
From the trails, I catch a glimpse of Bredskär, a small island where the Jansson family established a home in 1947. In search of further solitude, Tove constructed a cabin on the even smaller island of Klovharun in 1964, where she and her life partner, graphic artist Tuulikki Pietilä, spent 28 summers together. The couple led a simple existence, with the vast sea and each other’s company fueling their incredible imaginations.
The enchanting landscapes of Pellinki, Bredskär, and Klovharun find their way into Tove’s work across all her artistic ventures. The sea and its moods are ever-present, with storms that rage, possessions lost and found within the depths, and a profound respect for nature woven into everyday life.
I take a brief interlude in Porvoo, the closest town to Pellinki, known for its well-preserved old town, which exemplifies the resilience of its community following a devastating fire in 1760. Strolling through its winding streets, I admire the vibrantly colored wooden homes while learning about its storied past from Birgitta Palmqvist of Porvoo Tours—a former salt trading port.
My base in Porvoo is the exquisite art nouveau-style Runo hotel, formerly a bank and a town library. With 56 minimalistic Finnish-style rooms, rotating art displays, and an award-winning breakfast, it’s a splendid choice for any visitor.
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On the outskirts of Porvoo, I explore Kannonnokka, where a sauna is partly carved into rock and nestled deep in the woods. For Finns, sauna culture is vital enough that in 2020, UNESCO recognized it as part of the Intangible Cultural Heritage of Humanity. With a staggering 3.3 million saunas for a population of 5.6 million, the figures seem to rise with each individual I speak to. Even the tiny cabin on Klovharun boasted a sauna (a staple more essential than running water). At Kannonnokka sauna, the temperature hovers at a relaxing 60°C for leisurely sessions, with refreshing plunges into a cold pool and a gently heated whirlpool bath to follow. Afterward, the couple who run the venue serve up delicious pancakes cooked over an open fire.
As a budding artist, Tove painted murals for local buildings along the coast. In Kotka, about 50 miles east of Porvoo, a magnificent fairytale mural still adorns the walls of the city’s youth center. It offers a delightful labyrinth of stories, teeming with hidden Moomin figures and sparkles of gemstones.
In the neighboring town of Hamina, I admire panoramic fantasy scenes that decorate the town hall walls, portraying mermaids enchanting cadets beneath the waves, while shipwrecked treasure fills the local harbor. My journey then leads me to the Maritime Center Vellamo in Kotka, where *Courage, Freedom, Love! A Moomin Adventure*, launched this year to celebrate the 80th anniversary of the first Moomin book, captivates children and adults alike.
Visitors can play inside a replicative Moomin house, explore rocky landscapes surrounded by animated seas, and even dress up in a small theater. Also on display is Tove and Tuulikki’s boat, *Victoria*, crafted by Abbe Gustafsson for the couple.
A free ferry ride takes me from Kotka to Kaunissaari, meaning “beautiful island,” a title that fits its pine-clad terrain, white sandy beaches, and charming marina perfectly. The harbor, with vibrant red wooden cottages and wildflower gardens, feels straight out of a postcard. The island museum brims with remnants of resilient island life over the centuries. I follow winding trails through the trees to discover a long stretch of beach that I have entirely to myself. Unable to resist, I take a dip in the refreshing water, even without the comforting embrace of a sauna to jump into afterward. I warm up with a bowl of salmon soup at Maja restaurant, a cherished recipe that has remained unchanged for 70 years.
Finally, I retreat to my own little summer cottage near Kotka. Though the comforts are humble—a simple kitchen diner and a cozy bedroom—it comes with the essential sauna. I set it to heat, then spend an hour wandering the trails and the shoreline, drinking in the fading sunset. The long daylight hours lend themselves beautifully to a Finnish pastime known as *oxygen hopping*—a quick stroll for rejuvenation and fresh air. Back at the cabin, I toggle between the sauna’s warmth and refreshing dips into the chilly Baltic Sea, breathing in the beauty of the night, the waning light, and the stretch of summer before me. It’s clear why Tove Jansson found such inspiration along this enchanting coastline: all that my dream summer encapsulates is right here.
This journey was made possible by Visit Finland. Runo Hotel in Porvoo offers doubles from €171 B&B, while self-catering cabins at Santalahti Resort start at €89 (for two); sauna cottages are available from €198 (for up to four).