Helsinki’s vibrant city center showcases the Kaartinkaupunki and Punavuori neighborhoods, with Punavuori being a hotspot for food enthusiasts.Beatrice Bucht/Supplied
In an age where chefs often seek to champion local ingredients, Helsinki’s culinary scene is taking this commitment to a remarkable new level.
During a recent trip, I boarded Finnair’s new direct route from Toronto, arriving in Finland’s capital just in time for an afternoon of indulgent exploration through the city’s dining delights.
What struck me most were the restaurants that showcase the essence of Finland’s woodland culture. Here, you’ll find an exquisite marriage of lake fish, forest game, fermented fruits, and wild herbs, all coming together to create a uniquely Finnish interpretation of New Nordic cuisine. It’s a dining experience deeply rooted in the natural landscape and climate, with many tasting menus offering visitors an unforgettable showcase of local flavors.
Helsinki’s Punavuori and Kallio neighborhoods shine as the city’s key culinary destinations. Particularly charming, Punavuori delights visitors with a high concentration of independent, chef-led eateries. Conveniently situated near my downtown hotel, it is here that I enjoyed three of the finest meals during my stay. This area also abuts the Design District, where trendy wine bars and restaurants are flanked by stylish boutiques, lighting showrooms, and unique kitchenware shops, all nestled in the quaint side streets.
Restaurants in Helsinki deeply honor Finland’s woodland heritage.TIMO JALKANEN/Supplied
At Ravintola Skord, chefs Anton von Troil and Jon Backman take their commitment to ingredient integrity seriously: no ingredient comes from outside Finland—save for salt, of course. The daily menu is a testament to Finnish terroir, featuring wild herbs in place of pepper, while we sip on wine crafted from local berries—a surprisingly delightful choice that pairs well with the bold cuisine. Coffee is notably absent from the offerings. What may seem a restrictive philosophy instead sets the stage for an eccentric yet harmonious dining experience, enhanced by adorning thrift-store crockery.
A staple dish of crudo made from whitefish establishes a modest yet flavorful note. Braised moose meat, tender from hours of cooking, is complemented by young fireweed shoots resembling asparagus, lavishly coated in a creamy sauce. At Skord, I encounter pike perch—a fish intriguingly positioned between pike and perch in flavor and size. My deer main course arrives perfectly cooked, tender, and full of flavor without being gamy. Desserts, artfully enhanced with honey and berries, are a revelation, with parsnip ice cream and birch sorbet transporting me straight to the Finnish woods, evoking a similar experience to dining at the renowned Fogo Island Inn in Newfoundland and Labrador, where local produce reigns supreme.
Just a stone’s throw away, Ravintola Nolla operates under a distinct ethos, committed to a zero-waste philosophy—the very meaning of “nolla” in Finnish. Founding chefs Carlos Henriques, Luka Balac, and Albert Franch Sunyer have made sustainability the cornerstone of their culinary adventure. Even the waitstaff sport shirts crafted from repurposed hospital bedsheets.
At Nolla, every ingredient is thoughtfully utilized; nothing is wasted. Vegetable peels lend themselves to fermentation or purees, while what would typically be discarded fish parts elevate sauces and fillings. The scraps from meat are re-envisioned into emulsions or other innovative dishes. A striking feature in the dining room is the gleaming, stainless-steel composting bin—a far cry from the rustic wooden boxes we might expect, which collects scraps to be returned to suppliers as fertilizer.
The chef’s table at Nolla showcases the restaurant’s commitment to sustainability and inventive use of ingredients.Supplied
As I settled in at the chef’s table, mere feet from the kitchen hustle, I experienced culinary theater first-hand. I witnessed the meticulous plating of dishes, with highlights like pike crudo adorned with smoked ginger and black walnut ponzu, alongside a generous serving of deer tartare dressed in hazelnut dressing. Roasted celeriac paired beautifully with grilled kelp and goat cheese foam brings a farm-fresh twist to an otherwise gourmet experience. The forest theme continues with smoked lion’s mane mushrooms and roasted whitetail deer on the plate. Despite my full belly, I managed to carve out room for indulgent smoked milk and roasted gooseberry ice creams, a testament to my culinary resolve.
At Ravintola Jason, I encountered yet another facet of Helsinki’s vibrant culinary scene, where Michelin-level cooking is served up in a relaxed bistro atmosphere. Chef Jari Vesivalo—known affectionately as Jason since childhood—previously helmed the Michelin-starred Restaurant Olo and brings his experience to every dish. The set and à la carte menus feature seasonal vegetables, seafood, and game, with a firm emphasis on creating bold, distinctive flavors from regional ingredients. My dinner companions were thrilled by the separate plant-based tasting menu, which made ordering a delight for our vegetarian friend.
From the first course, a yellowtail crudo expertly cured with pear, lemongrass, and jalapeno, the sounds of appreciation filled the air. Each course continued to elicit oohs and ahhs, from the silky delight of beef tongue with creamy risotto to the roast lamb vibrant with wild garlic, tender asparagus, and a zesty lemon finish. A rhubarb dessert infused with jasmine tea, honey, and cardamom disappeared in moments, our spoons scraping the bowls clean.
Dinner at these three exceptional restaurants typically costs around 85 Euros per person, with drink pairings available. What struck me was the thoughtful portion sizes; never overwhelming, leaving us comfortably nourished and able to stroll away from the table. My culinary adventure through Helsinki revealed a refreshingly innovative approach to local sourcing, sustainability, and craftsmanship, right down to the very last drop of cloudberry compote.
If You Go
Finnair has recently launched direct flights from Toronto to Helsinki three times a week, operational through the end of August. For more information, visit Finnair.com.
The writer was a guest of Finnair, but the airline did not review or approve this article. All experiences shared herein are based on merit, and The Globe maintains editorial independence.