The Enigmatic Return of Wolves in Europe: From Villains to Wildlife Icons
At my quaint abode nestled in the hills of Umbria, Italy, the night air comes alive with the haunting howl of wolves, an unsettling yet enthralling sound that often echoes after dusk. While I’ve yet to catch a glimpse of these elusive creatures during my time here, my neighbors aren’t so fortunate. Their farm, just down the road, has become a stage for the wolves, who, as dawn breaks, cautiously approach to test the waters among their flock. Yet, these majestic intruders have an unlikely adversary: the ever-vigilant Maremma Sheepdogs that protect the sheep, with one dog even managing to fend off an entire pack on a memorable occasion.
This has led me to realize that it’s not merely about the act of seeing a wolf; it’s about the knowledge that something wild roams these hills, hidden just out of view. During twilight walks, I find myself pausing, caught in the rustling of trees too thick to penetrate. If a wolf is lurking there, it has likely spotted me long before I can comprehend its presence. Nonetheless, the chance of encountering one sparks a stillness that compels me to listen more intently, savoring the symphony of nature.
In recent years, the allure of this untamed spirit has prompted a boom in wildlife tourism across Europe. Outfitters are now offering adventures that capture this sense of possibility—tracking wolf packs through Italy’s verdant forests, following their paw prints in the wintry landscape of Sweden, and positioning photographers in remote hides deep within Finland’s wilderness. Some excursions come with a hefty price tag, but for many, a rare wolf sighting can be the ultimate prize, a memory revisited and cherished long afterward.
Historically, the wolf has been cast as a villain in European folklore, terrorizing innocent characters like Little Red Riding Hood. Yet, in Italy, the narrative takes a different turn. The she-wolf of legend, who nurtured the mythical founders of Rome, Romulus and Remus, remains a celebrated symbol of the Eternal City. Today, the real wolf is a captivating marvel, making a slow but steady return to regions where it was absent for generations.
Remarkably, a study published in 2025 in PLOS Sustainability and Transformation reveals that by 2022, over 21,500 wolves were residing across Europe—a 58% increase since 2012. In Germany, the wolf population surged from a solitary pack at the turn of the millennium to an impressive 219 packs in the 2024-25 count. In Italy, a nationwide estimate found approximately 3,307 wolves living within its borders by 2021, with the Alpine population rising from 946 to 1,124 by 2023-24. France, which has been welcoming the return of wolves from Italy since the early ’90s, saw an estimated winter population of 1,013 wolves in 2026. This remarkable resurgence represents one of Europe’s most extraordinary wildlife recoveries, happening in regions once presumed devoid of such apex predators.
However, it’s crucial to consider that these figures might even be understated. Cecilia Di Bernardi, the lead author of the study and a researcher at the Swedish University of Agricultural Sciences, elaborated on this in a recent interview. “In some countries, detailed monitoring practices exist, such as in Denmark, Finland, France, Germany, and the Italian Alps, where nearly every wolf is tracked genetically. Conversely, some of the largest wolf populations in Bulgaria and Romania are less systematically monitored. Thus, the estimate of 21,500 wolves is derived from the best available sources in each nation.”
These wolves didn’t just return through human efforts—they reclaimed their territories autonomously, migrating from existing populations, crossing borders, highways, and densely populated regions. “The resurgence is a blend of socio-ecological factors,” says Di Bernardi. “Legal protection has been pivotal, with wolves receiving safeguarding status under the Bern Convention and the EU Habitats Directive starting from the 1970s through the ’90s. This broad legal framework has been essential for the species’ recovery.” The revival of wild ungulate populations, expanding forested areas, diminishing rural populations, and a generally favorable public sentiment towards wolves have all contributed to this trend. “These conditions set the groundwork for recovery across all four large carnivore species, but wolves, as adaptable ecological generalists, have experienced a quicker resurgence.”
Scientists studying these majestic carnivores admit they were taken aback by the pace of population growth. “Our focus was predominantly on preventing the extinction of a dwindling number of wolves in Italy,” remarks Luigi Boitani, Chairman of the Large Carnivore Initiative for Europe and a conservationist since the 1970s. “We didn’t pay much attention to the health of wolf populations in eastern countries with their own thriving numbers. The speed of the resurgence took us by surprise, and while numbers remain low from a biological perspective, especially considering the vast area they occupy, it nonetheless marks a significant turnaround.”
Documenting this extraordinary recovery is the award-winning documentary Wolf, created by Dutch filmmaker Cees van Kempen. He recounted how he dedicated over 1,000 days to film in European forests, interviewing numerous scientists and wolf experts to capture the essence of the species’ return from Poland, traversing through Germany and into the Netherlands. He noted, “It’s a joyous occasion that wolves have returned to the Netherlands after a 150-year hiatus. It’s a testament to the nature conservation policies of the past decades, which have restored ecosystems, making them suitable for wolves once again.”
Abruzzo, a Pinnacle for Wolf Watching
In central Italy, the Apennines offer an exceptional opportunity for those keen on observing wolves in their natural habitat. Days begin before dawn, embarking on tracking adventures through expansive beech forests and rugged mountain landscapes that serve as feeding grounds for deer, wild boar, and the endangered Marsican brown bear.
Founded in 2000 by British conservationist Paul Lister, The European Nature Trust (TENT) supports initiatives geared toward rewilding, education, and community engagement across Europe. In Abruzzo, for example, TENT facilitates coexistence ventures, helping wolves and bears live alongside local residents. Their Winter Wolf Adventure encompasses four nights of immersive experiences, with excursions scheduled for 2027 costing approximately $3,250 per person. Guided by conservationists from Io Non Ho Paura Del Lupo, participants glean insights into how these organizations promote harmonious living between wildlife and local communities. Noteworthily, the trips will again feature author Adam Weymouth, known for his insightful book Lone Wolf, which chronicles the wolves’ resurgence across Europe.
Reflecting on the evolving landscape of wildlife travel in Europe, Lister remarked, “At TENT, we aim to connect individuals with nature. Conscious wildlife experiences in Europe’s rugged terrains can be just as iconic as safaris in Africa or wildlife encounters in distant lands. We are in a unique position to rediscover our continent’s stunning ecosystems, which are in urgent need of preservation amid climate change and biodiversity crises.”
Abruzzo stands as a testament to wolf resilience, having harbored small populations during periods of severe persecution in the 20th century. According to Lister, these wolves played a critical role in seeding Italy’s recovery and the eventual reoccupation of the western Alps and France. This rich history has translated into an increasing demand for wildlife experiences. Between 2015 and 2020, promotional exposure generated by the Marsican bear alone contributed an estimated $15 million to the Abruzzo region.
With four- and five-night trips led by seasoned guides like Lister, who have a profound familiarity with the local ecosystem, participants are provided with ample opportunities to observe bears and wolves while engaging in daily physical activities. Guests also have the chance to meet local shepherds and small business owners, learning about revitalized coexistence methods and indulging in authentic Italian cuisine during their outings.
Lister argues that Abruzzo has emerged as the premier European destination for observing both wolves and bears. “The open valleys and forested mountains furnish an ideal habitat with excellent visibility,” he explains. TENT’s Coexistence Adventures have achieved a remarkable feat: guests have successfully spotted wolves on every outing to date. Yet, Lister emphasizes the unpredictable nature of wildlife encounters. “We can never guarantee sightings, which is part of nature’s allure. However, we do offer high chances thanks to our experienced guides and the region’s favorable conditions. Even without a sighting, experiencing a wolf’s howl is a magical event—especially from the Terraegna Mountain Refuge, nestled in prime wolf territory.”
Exploring Sweden, Finland, and Beyond
Beyond Italy, the forests of Bergslagen in Sweden present an excellent opportunity for wolf enthusiasts to embark on adventures just a long weekend away from Stockholm. WildSweden organizes a three-day, hotel-based trip, guiding guests along tracks in active wolf territories and offering the chance to hear wolves howl after sunset. Sightings may be rare, but auditory encounters are more likely. Trips are typically priced around $1,000 per person and are limited to just seven guests. For those seeking a deeper experience, the company also offers immersive “Wolf Howling Experiences,” with participants spending two nights deep in the woods in hammocks.
Further north, in Kuhmo, Finland, a unique wildlife experience awaits those who prefer quiet observation over hiking. Wildlife Safaris Finland, founded by esteemed wildlife photographer Lassi Rautiainen, organizes safaris near the Russian border, where guests wait quietly in photography hides surrounded by pristine taiga forests, bogs, and wetlands. Rautiainen recalls welcoming his first guests in Kuhmo back in 1991; since then, he has hosted around 1,000 visitors from 34 countries. During the spring and summer, guests settle into hides mid-afternoon and remain overnight. “We often encounter wolves four to five nights a week,” he notes, suggesting that extended stays yield better photographic results, as those who linger often spot the elusive animals.
In Spain, the Riaño Mountains have gained recognition as a top wolf-watching destination, with several packs inhabiting open mountain valleys. WildWatching Spain has conducted Iberian wolf excursions here since 2011, collaborating with numerous natural-history travel agencies and serving hundreds of private clients annually. With peak season running from mid-July to late October, day trips typically feature morning and afternoon wildlife excursions.
Di Bernardi notes a distinct pattern in Spain compared to Central Europe. “Despite hosting over 1,000 wolves, Spain’s population remains primarily concentrated in its historical northwestern range, unlike the rapid geographic expansion seen in Central Europe.”
In Poland, the ancient Białowieża Forest along the Polish-Belarusian border offers a distinct wolf-watching adventure. Visitors can trace tracks through lush, old-growth woods inhabited by European bison and Eurasian lynx. Wild Poland arranges specially curated Wolves and Lynx Expeditions led by skilled trackers. Many guests find success spotting wolves, particularly in winter when snow reveals clear prints and scent marks.
The southern Alps in France, especially regions like Alpes-de-Haute-Provence and Mercantour National Park, also provide prime hunting grounds for wolves. Undiscovered Mountains leads responsible wolf-tracking trips, utilizing an ancient church in a quaint alpine hamlet as a home base. A portion of the trip fee directly supports local wolf-monitoring initiatives.
Accommodation: Where to Stay in Wolf Country
Accommodations for these adventures are as diverse as the landscapes they inhabit, ranging from charming family-run hotels and historic estates to forest hammocks and secluded cabins. This variety adds an element of authenticity to the experience.
Nestled within the heart of Abruzzo, the Hotel Sport Daniel serves as a home base for The European Nature Trust’s excursions, offering mountain views and a tranquil setting to start each day’s adventure.
In Sweden, Färna Herrgård, a historic country estate surrounded by lakes and active wolf territory, serves as a comfortable hub for excursions into Bergslagen’s wilds.
Over in Kuhmo, Finland, Hotel Kalevala provides wildlife packages with transfers to purpose-built photography hides nestled at the edge of Finland’s taiga.
Casa Rural La Era in Lario, Spain, sits conveniently close to areas frequented by Iberian wolves, making it an ideal launching point for guided tracking trips.
For those preferring a less unpredictable encounter, Wolf Lodge in Northern Norway offers an entirely different experience. Situated within a wolf enclosure at Polar Park, this lodge provides close interactions with wolves familiar with human presence, with private stays including a dedicated wildlife host.
Tracking Wolves Responsibly
Embracing responsible wolf tourism hinges on the understanding that uncertainty is part of the allure. The best excursions maintain small group sizes, protect den locations, and avoid disruptive practices like baiting or excessive use of recorded howls. The Large Carnivore Initiative for Europe advises operators to respect the animals’ natural behavior, cautioning against any company that guarantees a close encounter.
Di Bernardi echoes this sentiment, urging tourists to avoid any practices that involve feeding or close interaction, emphasizing that wolves should remain wild.
Lister affirms TENT’s commitment to responsible tourism. “All our trips are guided with care,” he explains. “We observe wildlife from a respectful distance, contrasting with other wildlife areas where animals have become somewhat habituated to human presence. Our forest and mountain hikes are grounded in ‘leave no trace’ principles, ensuring we don’t disturb the delicate balance of the ecosystem. We maintain small group sizes and work collectively with NGOs to thoughtfully minimize wildlife disturbance.”
Not only do tracking trips benefit local guides and family-owned hotels, but they also contribute to conservation efforts, even as the overall economic impact of wolf tourism remains under-researched. In Romania, travel agency Travel Carpathia notes that 70% of revenue generated from local stays supports community initiatives, all while fostering conservation projects.
Lister illustrates the broader vision: “Ecotourism plays a critical role in fostering sustainable green economies in Europe’s wilderness areas; it helps establish a tangible economic and cultural value for wildlife. The success story of Yellowstone serves as a prime example, where the return of wolves has led to an estimated annual revenue increase of $80 million due to the species’ presence, benefiting local restaurants, accommodations, and shops year-round.”
This virtuous cycle enables local communities to thrive on the back of wildlife tourism, counteracting rural-urban migration as young people often leave for city opportunities. According to Lister, reintroducing wildlife and fostering accompanying green economies incentivizes a return to rural life, reinvigorating communities.
Since its inception in 2025, TENT’s Coexistence Adventures have already generated over £60,000 yearly for bear and wolf coexistence projects, funds earmarked to assist real people living alongside wildlife.
It is vital to remain cautious as wolf management practices evolve across Europe. Recent changes shifted the wolf’s designation from “strictly protected” to “protected” under the Bern Convention, while amendments to the EU Habitats Directive came into effect. Member states must align these changes with national laws, although stricter protections may be retained.
“EU nature law establishes a minimum standard, not the utmost,” Dr. Guillaume Chapron, co-leader of the 2025 study alongside Di Bernardi, remarked. “Countries are obligated to prevent extinction, re-eradication, or delaying recovery indefinitely.” Governments will now have greater latitude to permit hunting and lethal management methods, though wolf populations must retain a favorable conservation status. Di Bernardi anticipates an increase in reliance on lethal measures while preventive approaches may recede.
The narrative of Europe’s wolves has transformed from a long-standing conservation tale to one interwoven with tourism, guiding businesses, photography, and specially tailored excursions across the continent, from the Apennines to the Arctic. A species that once vanished from vast areas is now draw people into some of Europe’s most untamed landscapes.
And as for me, the hope of finally spotting the wolves behind my home one day remains ever-present. Yet I have come to appreciate why responsible guides never guarantee sightings; the timing of such encounters is ultimately at the wolves’ discretion.