As I wander through the moss-draped linden trees and vibrant undergrowth, a distinctive red-brick building emerges along the Stony path. Nature, in all its glory, has cleverly disguised the structure, with a thick blanket of shrubs and grass nearly hiding its roof.
My intrigue deepens as I step inside the small warehouse. A shimmering blue crystal casts an enchanting glow in the dim light. Meanwhile, a computerized stained-glass window and a giant video screen project haunting footage of a shipwreck off the coast of the Baltic Sea.
Welcome to Vallisaari, the wildest among the 330 islands that make up the archipelago surrounding Helsinki. A brief 20-minute ferry ride from the bustling market square of Finland’s capital transports me to this seemingly otherworldly realm.
Originally established as a military base by the Swedes in the 17th century, Vallisaari was later reinforced by the Tsarist Russians and finally taken over by Finland’s own armed forces after independence in 1917. But once these fortifications were abandoned, nature had its turn, reclaiming the granite rocks with a flourish.
The island boasts an incredible diversity of flora and fauna, more than anywhere else in the region, with warblers, bats, owls, and a staggering 1,000 species of butterflies and moths calling it home.
Nestled beside the larger Suomenlinna sea fortress—an expansive complex of six islands featuring museums, parkland, and restaurants—Vallisaari offers a serene reprieve, a highlight of my visit to Helsinki since it opened to the public in 2016. It’s a place where I can escape the city’s buzz.
This summer, Vallisaari is hosting the Helsinki Biennial, a modern art festival founded in 2021. The mesmerizing crystal I spotted earlier is part of an eerie installation by Lithuanian artist Emilija Škarnulytė.
As I embark on a gentle two-mile hike, I discover that many of the former army storehouses have been transformed into galleries showcasing thought-provoking artwork. The pieces—largely focused on environmental themes—include a vivid array of plastic collected from the ocean and a powerful film highlighting the risks faced by native reindeer.
Some installations blend seamlessly into the trees, with designs reminiscent of fungi hanging delicately from branches and unsettling sculpted figures lurking among the greenery. I find myself captivated, determined to spot every artistic detail as I stroll through the forest.
The Biennial adds another layer to a city already renowned for its vibrant art and design scene.
Back in the heart of Helsinki, an architectural walking tour leads me through the subterranean gallery of the Amos Rex art museum, illuminated by the large portholes adorning its white concrete domes. Nearby, the Oodi library, resembling a grand ship, rests in Makasiinipuisto square and boasts a tempting café.
An afternoon is sufficient for a visit to the remarkable Temppeliaukio Church, ingeniously built into solid rock, where its round copper ceiling and angular struts evoke a setting straight out of a 1960s film designed by Ken Adam.
Yet what enchants me most about the Finnish capital is its proximity to nature.
With my newfound appreciation for the wilderness kindled in Vallisaari, I find my way to Helsinki Central Station—a destination in itself, crowned by a stunning Art Nouveau clocktower built in 1919—before embarking on a short journey to Nuuksio National Park. Less than an hour later, I’m gazing out over the serene waters of Nuuksio Pitkäjärvi, one of Finland’s 57,000 lakes, from the wooden terrace of the Haltia nature center. It surprises me to discover such tranquility so close to a bustling city.
Here, I meet Anna Nyman, a biologist who left behind the pressures of office life to lead foraging walks and workshops in the Finnish countryside. While exploring the enchanting footpaths of Nuuksio can be an independent endeavor, Anna’s guidance through the spruce forests and meadows enhances the experience.
As we gather blueberries, she introduces me to wild herbs like pineapple weed, yarrow, and ground elder, sharing their health benefits along the way. Even the humble daisy and dandelion find their place in her culinary advice. Initially skeptical, I find myself inspired as we savor Anna’s homemade nettle tarts and sweet fireweed, all while listening to the conifers rustling gently in the breeze.
Visitors to Nuuksio can opt for camping or stay in cozy log cabins, and a reindeer park is just a mile away.
However, having gained so much insight into Finland’s native ingredients, I’m eager to return to the city for a taste of how local chefs elevate them. Helsinki’s culinary scene is thriving.
Take Nokka, for example. Situated in a beautifully restored 19th-century harbor warehouse, this restaurant prides itself on seasonal food sourced from the wild. Beneath a quaint rowing boat suspended from its wooden beams, I delight in a starter featuring a platter of local specialties: oak-smoked herring, rich reindeer salami with pickled mushrooms, cured duck breast, and a sumptuous spread of split peas enhanced with black garlic and sea buckthorn berries.
I can’t help but be envious of my girlfriend’s ramson ravioli until my main course arrives—two tender cuts of reindeer (one shank, one roast topside) accompanied by asparagus, lingonberry, and a root vegetable purée so divine that I find myself ordering an extra helping of focaccia-style bread to savor every bite.
I also make my way to Nolla, possibly Helsinki’s most famed dining venue. Here, the focus is on zero waste and nose-to-tail sustainability, evidenced by the addictive skewered chicken gizzards. While watching the evening trams glide by outside, I enjoy delicate grilled whitefish, caught from one of those countless lakes, plated with lemon and thyme butter alongside charred zucchini.
Just a year since one of Nolla’s founders, Luka Balac, opened a new nature-inspired restaurant, Elm, I’m convinced this one may surpass his previous success.
Elm occupies a charmingly dilapidated 19th-century wooden villa on the edge of Kaivopuisto, Helsinki’s oldest park. Sitting on the veranda, sipping a port-and-tonic cocktail as I await a feast of charcuterie, grilled octopus, and organic beef filet, I feel warmly welcomed—as if stepping into the chef’s home.
Before I bid farewell to Helsinki, I must embrace its most visceral way to connect with nature: a dip in the Baltic Sea.
Though I prefer swimming in waters akin to a warm bath, I’m determined to experience the full sauna ritual. The city’s premier venue, Löyly, offers stunning sea views and twin ladders leading into the waters.
Even in mid-summer, the cold takes my breath away, but I plunge in. While I can’t say I delight in the frigid sensation for the few seconds it lasts, the refreshing aftermath leaves me exhilarated and proud to have ventured out of my comfort zone.
I discover that immersing oneself in nature has lasting rewards. As I head home, I feel more relaxed than I have in ages, already planning my next revitalizing journey to Finland.
Travel Essentials
Getting there
Finnair operates flights from the UK to Helsinki, with return tickets starting at £166. Services are available from Heathrow, Manchester, and Edinburgh.
Staying there
Scandic Grand Central Helsinki, located in a beautifully restored Art Nouveau building adjacent to the central railway station, offers rooms starting at €149 per night.Visiting there
Entry to the Helsinki Biennial is free; for more information, visit helsinkibiennaali.fi/en. The FRS Finland ferry to Vallisaari departs from Helsinki’s market square at least once an hour, with return tickets priced at €19.89 for adults and €9.95 for children aged 7 to 17; children under seven travel for free. For details, visit frs-finland.fi.Exploring Nuuksio National Park is free; more information can be found at nationalparks.fi/nuuksionp. A one-day public transport ticket, which covers travel around Helsinki as well as the train to Espoo and bus return to Nuuksio, costs €11. Anna Nyman offers foraging walks starting at €39 per person; learn more at foraginginfinland.com.
More information
For additional resources, visit visitfinland.com or myhelsinki.fi.