On the serene banks of Lake Rikkavesi in North Savo, eastern Finland, a cherished tradition endures: the smoke sauna, heated every Wednesday during the summer months, remains an inviting sanctuary for all who seek it.
As dusk settles at Kaavinkoski Saunapirtti, warmth radiates from the steam rising gracefully from the hot stones. The long summer evenings attract as many as 50 bathers, each drawn to share in this communal experience.
Heating the smoke sauna is no small task, requiring about six hours of dedication from a group of volunteers. Matti Rahunen, chair of the local village association, is eager to discuss this beloved tradition.
“One essential thing to know about a Finnish smoke sauna is that you won’t encounter any smoke inside once you’re ready to bathe,” Rahunen says with a smile.
Good Things Happen Slowly
The sauna’s walls are darkened by years of use. Photo: Matti Rahunen
The process begins with a carefully tended fire, allowing the massive sauna stones to absorb heat until they glow. After five to six hours, the smoke is vented out through the door and roof hatch. Floors and benches are cleaned, and the sauna is transformed into a welcoming retreat for bathers.
Alongside Rahunen, six dedicated volunteers from the Northeast Tuusniemi Village Association share the responsibility of preparing the sauna. Their efforts exemplify the Finnish spirit of talkooehenki, a profound sense of community that emphasizes coming together to support one another.
For Rahunen, spending a full day preparing the smoke sauna is not merely a task but a ritual of tranquility in its own right. And he finds it hard to feel lonely.
“People know that we heat the sauna on summer Wednesdays,” he explains. “All day long, visitors pop by to chat with whoever is on duty.”
Describing the Indescribable
The sauna, a serene escape on the shore of Lake Rikkavesi.Photo: Northeast Tuusniemi Village Association
“Some arrive by boat, while others stroll over with their dogs,” Rahunen continues. “There’s even a summer resident from nearby who sometimes flies in by seaplane—landing right on the lake—and stays for the whole evening to enjoy the sauna.”
Monika and Dieter Beyer, who hail from a small town in Saxony-Anhalt, Germany, have made Finland their summer retreat for over 20 years. On Wednesdays, Monika often finds herself at Kaavinkoski Saunapirtti, embracing the soothing heat of the sauna, swimming in the lake, and reconnecting with Finnish friends she has made over the years.
“I still vividly recall my first smoke sauna experience here,” she shares. “I had memorized a few basic phrases in Finnish, but primarily I could say, ‘I am a German tourist. Unfortunately, I do not speak Finnish.’
That was no barrier. “I’ll never forget the cheerful response I received from the volunteer supervising the sauna: ‘That’s not a problem; I speak a little German!'”
Monika emphasizes that the Finnish smoke sauna is an incomparable experience.
“This type of sauna is so unique,” she notes. “There are no artificial scents, just a completely natural, gentle smokiness. It truly stands apart from other saunas.”
She fully immerses herself in the ambiance: “Feeling the heat, ladling pure water over the stones—it’s blissful, almost beyond words. Each visit revitalizes me. Everyone should experience it at least once in their life.”
Evening Coffee by the Lake
Coffee brewed over an open fire is a cherished part of the sauna ritual, inviting visitors to linger and enjoy the tranquility of nature. Photo: Northeast Tuusniemi Village Association
On smoke sauna evenings, the men begin at six o’clock, and by half past seven, it’s the women’s turn.
“For the first 18 years, we started with the women,” Rahunen laughs. “Two years ago, we decided to switch things up. Which works better? I guess we’ll wait another 16 years for a proper comparison.”
The grounds surrounding the Kaavinkoski sauna cabin include a cozy campfire spot by the lakeshore. Photo: Northeast Tuusniemi Village Association
These sauna nights are a social affair. After their steam sessions, many bathers linger to chat, relax, and sip on evening coffee, traditionally brewed over an open fire. The Finnish custom of soot pan coffee is just one of the many delights offered. Some visitors even bring food to grill by the lakeside hut, adding to the sense of community.
By Joanna Sinclair, July 2026