Exploring Pirunkuru
- Route: Starting from the Kesänkijärvi car park, the journey takes you to the Kesänkijärvi lean-to, then on to Pirunkuru, continuing to Tahkokuru Hut, before looping back to Kesänkijärvi road and the car park.
- Length: 8.1 km
- Difficulty: Intermediate
- Terrain: A diverse landscape ranging from flat shores to steep, rocky ascents, culminating in a rugged trail over a fell, before an easier descent to the hut. The path meanders through mixed forests, open fells, and ancient pine groves.
- Location of Kesänkijärvi car park on the map.
Arriving in Äkäslompolo, I’m greeted by a summer day that transitions from sunshine to rain as the wind sweeps in. I decide to have my lunch in the car, watching the raindrops dribble down the windscreen as I savor a delicious baguette.
As I enjoy my meal, I ponder my options: should I take the more leisurely six-kilometer Kesänkijärvi trail, or tackle the more demanding Pirunkuru ponnistus trail up to the Kesänki fell? The 8.1-kilometer route promises a challenge, but would I have enough time to complete it at a comfortable pace before heading to Kolari railway station for my journey back south?
Opting for adventure, I step out into the light rain and begin my trek along the Kesänkijärvi trail. The initial path leads both routes I’m considering, giving me more time to make my choice.
As I walk toward the Kesänkijärvi lean-to, dark clouds hover over Yllästunturi, though surprisingly, the rain momentarily ceases. Through the trees to my right, glimpses of the lake emerge, with the resplendent, dome-topped Clock Tower on the far shore, nestled against the backdrop of Yllästunturi’s ski slopes.
The rain-soaked underbrush glistens a vibrant green, and rays of sunlight filtering through the clouds amplify the beauty of early summer in the forest. With every step deeper into the woods, I feel the fatigue from my two-hour drive fading away, replaced by renewed energy.
I soon reach a crossroads where the Kesänkijärvi trail continues to the right, while the enticing ascent of Kesänki fell beckons from the left. Weighing the challenge in my mind, I know this climb will likely take longer than the three hours indicated by Metsähallitus. Yet, I find myself irresistibly drawn to the left path.
As I make my way up, the incline starts off gentle, only to steepen as the forest thins out. I take a moment to kneel beside a fallen tree, examining the fascinating horn lichen that twists and turns in its quest for sunlight.
A shale gully appears before me—Pirunkuru—its steep walls looming. As raindrops greet my face once more, I pull on my raincoat. Though it lacks the grandeur of a “Stairway to Heaven,” the gorge feels alive, yearning skyward. Taking a breath, I search for stable stepping stones and begin my ascent.
The climb is fierce; the ground shifts beneath me, testing my footing. My ankles twist and turn while my knees steady my movements, propelling me forward. Breathless, I pause to look back, catching sight of the Clock Tower peering through the treetops.
Determined, I continue my ascent. The rain subsides, and moments later, the sun breaks free. The rocky gorge begins to broaden, and I pause to drink in the awe-inspiring views of Kellostapuli and Kesänkijärvi. I shed my raincoat, allowing the breeze to cool my damp shirt.
As I approach the gorge’s summit, I spot a solitary pine tree rooted in the rocky slope, small yet steeped in years. The path meanders through low juniper bushes, while new male flowers burgeon at the tips of branches, poised to release their pollen. Among the budding twigs, a smiling face seems to await the coming spectacle.
Finally, I conquer the top of the gorge, greeted by an expansive landscape where fells stretch in every direction. Overwhelmed with joy, I shout in triumph—after a two-year hiatus, I’m back in the heart of Lapland. I circle around, soaking in the wide-open fell landscape that I’ve sorely missed.
The wind dances through my hair, wrapping around me like a gentle embrace. The openness, coupled with the refreshing sunshine, revitalizes my spirit. I find bliss in the simplicity of the scenery.
Lainiotunturi rises to my right while the fells extend northward towards Pallastunturi. I linger awhile, reveling in the rugged beauty of this wild terrain. The shifting clouds cast fascinating shadows, and I capture the moment, saving it to memory.
Rocks dominate the nearby landscape, adorned with vibrant yellow map lichen. I scan the surface of one stone, resembling the erosive patterns of Kesänkitunturi, but I’m left marveling instead at the beauty of the lichen.
In this stony expanse, a short spruce sprawls like a miniature Tapio table. Its growth stunted by wind and frost, yet it perseveres and thrives in this challenging habitat.
As I traverse the fells, engrossed in the shapes and patterns around me, I lose sight of the marked route—a testament to the captivating scenery. Upon realizing my straying, I descend the northern slope, carefully returning to the trail.
Descending now, I notice the crowberries, alpine bearberries, and bilberry bushes cloaking the barren rocks in a lush green cover, with spruces peeking among the mountain birches. Finally, I arrive at the Tahkokuru Hut, where I take a moment to rest my legs.
As I relax, a green hairstreak butterfly flits from bilberry flower to flower, pausing briefly on each before moving on. I wait for it to settle just long enough to capture a photograph before it flits away again.
The wider trail from Tahkokuru Hut, also a mountain biking path, begins to descend gently. Here, I can walk freely without focus on my steps; yet, my neck strains from constantly scanning my surroundings for the beauty that lies in every direction.
I take in the forest structure—candle-shaped spruces that stand tall, adorned with horsehair lichen swaying gently in the breeze, while mighty pines stretch beyond them. A shorter pine branches out, showcasing newly opened male flowers, signaling that the pine pollen season is just getting underway in Lapland, even as it has concluded back south.
Fallen trees, each at different stages of decay, line the path. Their gray trunks gleam against the vibrant green understory. Other trees, cloaked in green moss, blend organically with the forest floor. One tree now stands as a silhouette, its dark green crowberry-covered line stark against the light green bilberries all around.
Suddenly, a flurry of movement draws my attention, leading me to a hopping creature. Moving quietly, I inch closer and soon identify a striking brambling, diligently gathering food for its young. Once it’s out of sight, I resume my path.
Eager to continue, I quicken my pace, pausing only to admire the captivating flora—large Arctic kidney lichen resembling light green ears and vibrant orange patches on stumps. Only through close inspection can I appreciate the intricate coral-like formations of tree fringewort.
Countless silver-trunked birches peek from amongst the conifers; some sprout from unexpected places. A twisting birch emerges from an anthill, while another sprouts on a stump draped in lingonberries. Dangling beards of lichen cascade from the branches of an ancient birch, whispering tales of time.
There’s so much to marvel at, and the invigorating essence of early summer makes my stroll through this natural cathedral all the more enjoyable. I feel a harmonious blend of energy and tranquility coursing through me—if only this walk could last forever. My legs have certainly chosen a splendid and varied route.
As I approach Kesänkijärventie, I follow the road until I find myself at a crossroads, where the rounded summit of Kesänki looms in the distance. Turning right, I take a short jaunt to the car park. The sunlight warms my skin, and from the edge of a small bog, I capture one last photograph of Kellostapuli and Yllästunturi.
With a leisurely gait, I complete the Pirunkuru effort trail in a comfortable four hours, just in time to indulge in a well-deserved dinner before the long train journey south. My stomach grumbles in agreement—what delicious treat awaits?
What to Read Next
For more on the trails, check out: A devilishly good trail: Pirunkierros Trail in Lauhanvuori National Park.
Looking for Petra: The wild Finnish forest reindeer.
Or take a leisurely stroll on the Terassikierros trail in Lauhanvuori National Park.