Paris. Bologna. San Sebastián. Rome. What connects these vibrant European cities? They are culinary capitals where food enthusiasts eagerly converge. Each city boasts its own charms and attractions, yet it’s the culinary scene that fuels their allure—particularly in Bologna, where gastronomy reigns supreme.
For many travelers, restaurant reservations and tasting menus often dictate their itinerary, sometimes requiring advance bookings of up to 30 days. The pursuit of three-star Michelin dining can transform a simple trip into a gastronomic pilgrimage.
However, when I planned my recent jaunt to Helsinki, Finland, Michelin stars weren’t on my mind. My focus was on the city’s design, its beauty, and the mild July weather. But the food? That had not featured prominently on my radar.
That is, until I arrived.
Helsinki’s culinary offerings are not just an afterthought; they are vibrantly inventive and thoroughly enjoyable. For anyone seeking a European food destination worthy of a postcard, look no further than this laid-back capital of Finland.
One standout is Juuri, a small-plates restaurant nestled in the city’s design district, just off the main square. The dishes here boast a myriad of ingredients, often belied by surprisingly simple menu descriptions, such as beef with beetroot and chicken with celery.
“Is this considered eclectic Finnish food?” I asked our server, who succinctly replied, “This is Finnish food. This is typical.” No frills are needed here—unless you consider the thoughtfully plated culinary artwork worthy of admiration.
In full transparency, the culinary experience at Juuri wasn’t worlds apart from a recent meal I enjoyed at Eleven Madison Park, a Michelin-starred titan in the food world. While the accolades of EMP are well-deserved, I would assert that Juuri’s offerings stand tall in terms of flavor—no compromise made.
Heidi Kavander-Sundström, Juuri’s office sales manager, encouraged a visit to their website to explore the origins and ethos of the restaurant. Clicking on the “Roots” tab reveals a compelling statement: “Our roots in this country… Tasty food is always topical, preferably several times a day and without rushing.”
At Juuri, they refer to their bite-sized dishes as “sapas,” encouraging the spirit of sharing. The menu often offers minimal descriptions, with entries like tomato with bread hinting at basic ingredients while masking an explosion of rich flavors. Potato with garlic might not sound thrilling, but your taste buds would undoubtedly disagree.
If Juuri embodies “Finnish cuisine with attitude,” then Kalakauppa E. Eriksson, a fish shop located within Helsinki’s Old Market Hall, excels in delivering unadulterated taste.
Helsinki boasts two main markets, the Old Market Hall and Hakaniemen Market Hall, both deserving of a visit (or perhaps three). The newer Hietalahti Market Hall rounds it out with a vibrant row of restaurants and boutique shops.
At Hakaniemen Market Hall, the array of pastries alone is worth the trip. The viineri, a delightful cream puff croissant hybrid, filled with lightly sweetened whipped cream and jam, is like biting into a cloud—only ten times tastier.
Vanha Kauppahalli, or the Old Market Hall, has been part of the city since 1888. While its polished interior hints at renovations, the market retains an aura of old-world charm.
Fishmongers offer the day’s freshest catch, while butchers display an assortment of reindeer, jerky, and generously thick cuts of Porterhouse steak. A boutique liquor store caters to shoppers with a selection of local wines and spirits, alongside Mari’s Smoothie, featuring gluten-free treats and fresh juices for health-conscious visitors.
The market isn’t solely devoted to local fare; a gluten-free vendor caters to those yearning for an American-style cupcake or cookie, while a stall named Hanoi Vietnam tempts with traditional bánh mì sandwiches. During my visit in July, they even offered a Finnish twist, substituting crayfish for the classic pork and terrine when the seafood was in season.
Kalakauppa E. Eriksson is a popular feature within the market, boasting seating for those wanting to savor pre-made offerings, including salmon soup—a must-try regional dish—paired, perhaps, with a glass of sparkling wine.
Opposite this casual dining area, the to-go section serves fish by the pound along with a selection of open-faced smoked sandwiches. The sandwiches, served on nutty, whole-grain bread, include choices like shrimp salad and fried herring, but the star of the show remains the crayfish salad.
This humble yet satisfying sandwich, made with quality mayonnaise and garnished with a sprig of dill and lemon, is arguably the best food item in all of Helsinki.
When I reached out to Juha Lindberg, the merchant overseeing E. Eriksson Market Hall, for insights into their culinary philosophy, he simply stated, “Our seafood bistro is popular because it’s so fresh. I have dedicated my career to seafood.”
With crayfish season running from July 21 through the end of October, the window for indulging in this delicacy is brief but joyous.
Old and Respected
Founded in 1934, Sea Horse stands as one of Helsinki’s most visited dining establishments, but it’s far from a tourist trap. The restaurant, adorned with white-tablecloth elegance, offers menus in Finnish, Swedish, English, Russian, and Japanese, making it a welcoming spot for international guests.
Known for both its meat and seafood, Sea Horse embraces tradition over change. While a few vegetarian options are available, the real draw lies in the signature dishes, particularly the reindeer.
Fillet of reindeer may sit near the bottom of the menu, but its unique appeal ensures it captures attention. Served medium with a cranberry-red wine sauce, it’s accompanied by buttery mashed potatoes, perfectly complementing the lean, flavorful meat that beautifully absorbs the rich sauce.
Sea Horse’s generous portions might tempt you to leave room for dessert, with selections like Finnish squeaky cheese paired with cloudberry jam and the classic cheesecake standing out as recommendations.
On my travels, I was reminded of the rich tapestry contributing to Helsinki’s culinary scene. As Krog Roba, a boutique hotel restaurant, serves breakfast, lunch, and dinner, it elevates hotel dining to an art form marked by velvet green banquettes and a vibrant pastry bar.
The executive chef, Karri Knaapila, proudly shares that Finland’s “pure and clean air” and “short but very intensive and light full summer season” greatly influence the menu, resulting in dishes that celebrate local ingredients.
As Helsinki’s food scene continues to flourish, Knaapila expresses enthusiasm, noting, “Good restaurants bring more good restaurants.”
For anyone seeking an authentic culinary adventure, Helsinki is establishing itself as a worthy destination.
Below are some must-visit spots:
Just, Korkeavuorenkatu 27, 00130 Helsinki, Tel: (09) 635 732
Fish Shop E. Eriksson, Holkkitie 12, 00880 Helsinki, Finland, Tel: +358 20 7639335
Hakaniemi Market Hall, Hämeentie 1a, 00530 Helsinki, Finland, Tel: +358 9 31023560
The Old Market Hall, Eteläranta, 00130 Helsinki, Finland, Tel: +358 9 31023550
Sea Horse, Restaurant Sea Horse, Kapteeninkatu 11, 00140 Helsinki, Tel: (09) 628 169
Krog Roba, Pieni Roobertinkatu 1-3, 00130 Helsinki