Quiz time: Which city claims the title of the oldest in Finland, serving as its capital from 1809? Surprisingly, it’s not Helsinki but Turku. Nestled in the south-west, this under-the-radar gem has long been pivotal to Finland’s history. Fast forward 200 years since its vibrant heyday, and Turku is experiencing a remarkable resurgence, complete with stylish new bars, restaurants, and even direct flights from Luton. My partner and I decided to explore this charming city for a long weekend, drawn in by its scenic riverside views, its self-proclaimed status as the Finnish food capital, and the allure of 20,000 islands just a stone’s throw away.
A visit to Turku undeniably begins at the River Aura, which slices through the city, neatly dividing it into “this side” and “the other side.” “This side” boasts the historic cathedral and a lively array of boat bars, while “the other side” is home to the castle and an abundance of dining options. Both riverbanks feature pedestrian-friendly boulevards bustling with walkers, cyclists, and sun seekers—as we discovered during a pleasantly warm May afternoon, with temperatures reaching 25 degrees Celsius. Ten bridges cross the water, and the free ferry, the Föri, has been a reliable mode of transport since 1903. Turku lacks a traditional old town, most of its historical architecture lost to the Great Fire of 1827; however, the vibrant, flower-laden riverbanks make up for it. We opted for a quaint electric picnic boat, cruising towards the river’s mouth for around an hour (€59 for up to eight people, lanaturku.fi).
Turku has truly made a name for itself in the culinary realm. While many establishments line the riverfront, the standout is Kaskis, which requires a bit of a trek uphill to one of the city’s seven diminutive hills. Reservations are essential; we only managed to nab a table for the early sitting at 4 p.m. The restaurant features a selection of four-, five-, and six-course menus (€59-€69), complemented by enticing wine pairings (€37-€47). Emphasizing fresh Nordic fare, many dishes showcase ingredients sourced directly from Finnish forests. The spring menu highlighted pike perch, asparagus, lamb, and rhubarb; my personal favorite was a cabbage dish adorned with shaved reindeer heart. As we dined, we glanced outside to find a young girl practicing on her hobby horse, a beloved Finnish pastime.
Another delightful dining establishment, Smör, resides in quaint former vaults by the river and shares Kaskis’s commitment to fresh, local ingredients—serving five- and seven-course tasting menus (€62/€72) alongside wine flights (€48/€58). We savored elegant dishes like trout with mussels, radishes, and broad beans, but the real highlight was a plate of crispy chicken skin that delivered pure bliss. If fine dining isn’t your style, you can find alternatives like Mum, which features a rotating daily lunch menu, with options like liver on Fridays (mains around €10), and Aune, known for its fantastic burgers (both meat and vegetarian, €17). For vegetarians, Hügge is a must-visit, while Bass is a newcomer specializing in seafood, and Rioni brings the vibrant flavors of Georgian cuisine.
A burgeoning gastronomic district has sprung up just a 15-minute walk from Turku’s center, taking residence in the unexpected setting of an old prison. Kakola Prison, which perched atop Kakolanmäki Hill since its opening in 1853, was notorious until its closure in 2007. After lying dormant for a decade, Kaskis’s visionary team has transformed it into Kakolanusu, a restaurant serving food grilled over an open fire, designed for sharing—think lamb chops with burnt aubergine (€28). The restaurant is accompanied by the Kakola Brewing Company, featuring a terrace and small bar, and Mskt Coffee Roasters, with a roastery set to open soon. Plans for a bakery, along with a hotel and spa, are in the pipeline for next year, while a prison museum and summer walking tours add an intriguing layer to the area, complemented by a newly installed funicular.
With two universities and around 35,000 students, Turku boasts a dynamic bar scene. The city’s iconic boat bars are a backdrop for summer pop-ups like the quirky Surf Shack, while more traditional settings can be found in its historic pubs. Live music resonates through the halls of Old Bank on Wednesday, Friday, and Saturday nights, while New Pharmacy features a bar housed within a former pharmacy, and Brewery Restaurant Koulu operates out of a grand old school. For those after views, Turku’s first rooftop bar, Wow, has made its launch atop the Wiklund hotel, claiming the spotlight this summer. For those seeking nightlife, Bass also includes a speakeasy-style club that buzzes until the early hours of the morning on weekends. Be on the lookout for happy hours—drinks can be pricey here.
In 2011, Turku earned the distinction of being the European Capital of Culture, sharing the honor with Tallinn, Estonia. The city is home to a diverse array of smaller museums worth exploring. We meandered through the Turku Art Museum, featuring an impressive collection of Finnish masters; the Sibelius Museum, housing a rich exhibition focused on the composer’s life and work; the Wäinö Aaltonen Museum, dedicated to the local sculptor whose remarkable pieces are displayed throughout town; and the unique Aboa Vetus & Ars Nova, a dual museum showcasing both contemporary art and archaeological finds. We also visited the picturesque Handicrafts Museum, an open-air museum showcasing original wooden houses in the Luostarinmäki quarter, one of the few sections that weathered the devastating fire. For the intrepid explorer, the €38 Museum Walk card allows access to 12 museums over three days—though be prepared for a bit of stamina!
When it comes to shopping, Turku offers a delightful mix of vintage clothing shops and design outlets like Kui Design and Terravija, which specializes in exquisite handmade ceramics. The bustling Market Hall, crafted by architect Gustaf Nyström in 1896, is sadly caught in a debate over an underground parking project that’s currently tearing up the expansive Market Square.
Our stay was at the recently reopened Turku Seurahuone hotel, an architectural marvel by Erik Bryggman, completed in the 1920s in a Nordic classicist style. The hotel has undergone a stylish restoration, offering a splendid buffet breakfast that includes salmon, local cheeses, and various types of rye bread (rooms from £148 B&B, sokoshotels.fi).
Yet, it’s not just the city that enchants; the Turku archipelago is an equally compelling draw, comprising around 20,000 islands, many connected by the scenic Archipelago Trail, a 200-kilometer network of roads, bridges, and free ferries—perfect for a leisurely road trip or cycling adventure. We devoted a day to exploring these islands, cherished by many locals as summer retreats. We relished a platter of shrimp, herring, and salmon at Sattmark in Parainen (Pargas, in Swedish; the archipelago is bilingual), and then headed to Nauvo/Nagu, a bustling tourist hub accessible by bus from Turku. This charming locale is a prime spot for renting bikes or kayaks and lies along the St. Olav’s Waterway, a newly established pilgrimage route stretching from Turku to Trondheim in Norway.
Our boat trip around the islands revealed a landscape of gentle, forested hills and quaint cabins peeking through the trees. Although they might not possess the dramatic allure of Norway’s fjords, they offer a unique serenity. The archipelago teems with life, particularly in spring, when we encountered few fellow travelers but were surrounded by an abundance of birds, including a majestic sea eagle. We eventually made our way to tack cap, a berry farm with cozy glass-roofed accommodations and a traditional Finnish smoke sauna. One day barely scratched the surface; I could easily see myself spending several more days kayaking and practicing wild camping (a privilege afforded by Finland’s everyman’s right).
As we made our way back to the city, we took a final leisurely stroll along the river. Finland’s inaugural capital may have only held its title for a brief three years—eventually eclipsed by Helsinki—but it wears its rich history with pride. Considering the flurry of new openings, there’s every indication that Turku’s future is as promising as its past.
This trip was made possible by Visit Turku.com. Wizz Air will begin flying from Luton to Turku three times a week starting July 2, with fares from £22 one way. Ferries also connect Stockholm to Turku (10 hours 35 minutes, from around £15 one way).
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