The scent of the sea greets you long before the island comes into view.
As the ferry pulls away from the mainland, the tranquil waters of the Gulf of Bothnia rock us gently. Gulls soar overhead, their calls dancing on the wind, while strands of hair tangle joyfully in the salty air.
Our destination is Hailuoto, the largest island in the Bay of Bothnia, off the coast of Oulu in northern Finland. Renowned for its pristine sandy beaches, windswept pine forests, and vibrant cultural scene, the island has always felt somewhat apart from the rest of Finland.
Oulu resident Juha Ristola (left) frequently visits Hailuoto to indulge his passion for birdwatching. In June, he made what was likely his last ferry trip to the island.
For centuries, accessing Hailuoto has meant embarking on a boat. In winter, locals traverse an ice road across the frozen sea. However, change is on the horizon. Come June 2026, a new 8.4-kilometer (5.2-mile) bridge will connect the island to the mainland, ending the era of ferry crossings and fundamentally altering the way people arrive here.
This begs the question: what happens when an island becomes more accessible?
An Island Still Apart
The Hailuoto bridge is set to open in summer 2026. This new thoroughfare comprises two long bridges linked by a causeway, extending a total of 8.4 kilometers (5.2 miles).
On a sprawling sandy beach, sisters Sanna and Johanna stroll alongside Sanna’s daughter, Iida.
“Nature is right at your fingertips here,” Sanna Varanka remarks. “That’s precisely what makes this place special. You can’t find this kind of peace everywhere.”
Such tranquility lures many visitors each year.
Fishing has long been a cornerstone of Hailuoto’s economy.
Marjaniemi features a series of walking trails, including pathways accessible to those with limited mobility.
The sea is full of treasures—what stone will become today’s most beautiful find?
Hailuoto is a young island, still emerging from the sea as the land gradually rebounds from the last Ice Age. With each passing year, it expands slightly. Given enough time, it may eventually become one with the mainland.
The landscape is breathtaking: pine forests sculpted by coastal gales, dynamic dunes, and sweeping beaches that stretch toward a limitless horizon. Even on a brisk June day, walkers, birdwatchers, and treasure hunters wander the shoreline.
When Finns decide to swim, the water is hardly ever too cold.
Hailuoto is also a haven for birdwatchers, positioned along major migratory paths and drawing enthusiasts throughout the seasons.
Life by the Lighthouse
Auli Sipola, a lifelong resident of Hailuoto, serves as one of the island’s local guides.
Marjaniemi Lighthouse stands sentinel over the coast, its current tower lighting the way for vessels since 1871. Local guide Auli Sipola invites us to ascend its 110 steps, providing a worthy excuse for a short pause midway.
A small hatch in the lighthouse offers a glimpse of the island’s historic pilot station.
Having grown up on Hailuoto, Sipola recalls her daily treks to Oulu during her working years.
“In winter, I traveled via the ice road, and when the sea was open, I took the ferry,” she reflects.
Like many islanders, she contemplates how the new bridge will transform daily life. While easier access will draw more visitors, what becomes of the slower pace that has characterized the island for generations?
Sweden lies just over 100 kilometers (62 miles) west of Hailuoto, across the Gulf of Bothnia.
Marjaniemi Lighthouse, designed by architect Axel Hampus Dahlström in the late 19th century, became automatic in 1962.
Auli Sipola guides visitors to Hailuoto’s attractions, with the lighthouse standing as one of the island’s most cherished sights.
On a clear day, one can gaze as far as the coastal town of Raahe, roughly 40 kilometers (25 miles) south. Yet today, low clouds shroud the horizon.
Beneath the lighthouse lies the quaint fishing village of Marjaniemi, where rows of red wooden cabins dot the shoreline. Many of these have been transformed into holiday homes, and the village welcomes travelers with charming cafés, accommodations, and restaurants.
Salmon soup, often considered a national dish, is served throughout Finland and rarely disappoints.
Just behind the lighthouse, Hailuodon Halstari operates a traditional smokehouse that boldly claims to serve the “world’s best” fish soup. Its creamy salmon variant certainly makes a strong case.
Before the Bridge
Fishing boats and nets add to Hailuoto’s coastal charm.
Despite its modest population of fewer than 1,000 residents, Hailuoto boasts an unexpectedly lively cultural scene.
The island’s calendar is filled with festivals, exhibitions, and community gatherings. In July, music enthusiasts flock to Bättre Folk, an independent festival that draws artists and audiences from around the nation. Additionally, environmental artist Anni Rapinoja’s works pepper the island’s landscape, seamlessly blending nature and culture.
Central to the island’s daily life are essential amenities such as a school, daycare center, grocery store, and church. Hailuoto Church, completed in 1972, stands as an iconic example of Finnish modernist architecture, featuring a striking triangular roof and expansive glass facade.
Hailuoto Church was designed by architects Irma and Matti Aaltonen.
Many handcrafted maritime-themed products can be found in local shops.
Galleria Luoto presents a rotating program of contemporary art exhibitions throughout the year.
Nearby, the shop Luovon Puoji & Pariton Kuppi offers locally crafted souvenirs, while Hailuodon Panimo, Finland’s first organic brewery, is a frequent stop for visitors eager to sample local flavors.
Kai Öystilä, who now lives in Espoo but grew up across the water in Oulunsalo, has just come by to stock up on drinks for a sauna evening. His children, Valtteri and Emma, have made numerous visits to the island.
“Hailuoto has its own unique character,” he shares.
For the Öystilä family, Hailuoto is a familiar haven. The upcoming bridge brings mixed emotions, as the island is bound to transform.
As the time comes to board the ferry back to the mainland, there’s a bittersweet feeling in the air.
This journey, which has defined life on Hailuoto for centuries, is now entering its final chapter. The new bridge promises convenience, fresh opportunities, and an influx of visitors, yet many will feel a pang of nostalgia for the ferry. After all, crossing the sea has always been part of the adventure.
Text and photos by Emilia Kangasluoma, June 2026