A Journey Through Lapland’s Untamed Beauty: Jonna Viitaniemi’s Trek to Finland’s Highest Peak
Jonna Viitaniemi stood atop Saana Fell, her gaze sweeping across the boundless Wilderness of Lapland. The magnificent autumn hues of Saana and the expansive Kilpisjärvi Wilderness sparked an adventurous longing in her—a desire to explore the remote expanses that lay far removed from the rigors of daily life. This inspiration would soon lead her to reserve a spot on a guided trek into the Kilpisjärvi wilderness, a week-long odyssey that would take her deep into this stunning landscape, ultimately culminating at Halti, Finland’s highest point.
The Wilderness: A Much-Needed Escape
The impulse to disconnect from her daily routine was a major motivator for Jonna to consider an extended hike in Lapland. Opting for a guided tour made the planning process a breezy affair, sparing her the logistical challenges of navigating the wilderness on her own.
“I didn’t have the energy or time to plan everything myself,” Jonna reflected. “Having someone else handle the routes and gear lists allowed me to focus on the experience itself.”
After comparing several tour companies, she settled on a package that offered the chance to reach Halti and included essential equipment like skis and a backpack—no rentals necessary.
A First foray into the Wild
As a member of the sales team at Finland, Naturally, based at the Finnish Nature Center Haltia in Nuuksio National Park, Jonna was familiar with the beauty of Lapland, having lived in Rovaniemi and traveled through Eastern Lapland. However, this winter trek was a first; she had never embarked on hikes longer than a couple of nights. Yet, her confidence in her fitness level reassured her that she would rise to the challenge.
“I was prepared,” she said, recalling the backup equipment carried along for safety. “You need a solid fitness foundation and skiing skills. I actually enjoy classic cross-country skiing and have experience with forest and trekking skis. Plus, my military background helped on this trek.”
A Six-Day Circuit
The group, composed of women ranging from millennials to those in their sixties, gathered for a night at a hostel before setting out into the crisp, -28°C morning. With bags expertly packed per their guides’ lists, everyone brought extra food, an important precaution when venturing into remote areas.
“I didn’t realize food should be packed in airtight containers to deter mice. I also overestimated how long we’d be out, packing enough for two extra days,” Jonna chuckled.
Just minutes into the trek, layers began to shed; the biting cold lessened as they ascended into the fells, with the late-winter sun ushering in a sweat-inducing warmth.
“We enjoyed great weather throughout the journey,” Jonna recounted. “It was mostly sunny, though we encountered a few snowstorms. I remember feeling grateful we had the wind at our backs while skiing past others struggling against it.”
Finding Meaning in the Journey
Their path wound from Kilpisjärvi through Saarijärvi to Meeko and on to Pitsus, where they lingered for two nights while making the ascent to Halti. Daily distances varied from ten to twenty kilometers, with wildlife encounters including ptarmigans and what appeared to be wolverine tracks.
“At times, I questioned the point of all this effort,” Jonna admitted. “Skiing felt tedious, yet upon reaching a break or a cabin, I was flooded with joy at the sheer beauty surrounding us. And being without a phone for an entire week was liberating.”
Tents accompanied the group as a precaution for bad weather, but they enjoyed a seamless trek, traversing from one wilderness hut to the next—a prospect that suited Jonna perfectly.
“Even on a week-long hike, it felt luxurious to warm up inside a hut. You could dry your clothes and truly relax. I had thought about spending nights in a tent but found the huts much more comfortable.”
In Lapland’s wilderness, different types of huts cater to trekkers—some free and open to all, while others require reservations and fees. Knowing these options exists, Jonna emphasized the importance of carrying a tent, as newcomers must always be accommodated in open huts, sometimes at the expense of those who arrived first.
Evenings of Camaraderie
As dusk fell, evenings at the huts were filled with laughter and camaraderie. Some played cards while Jonna indulged in her favorite pastimes—savoring delicious meals and diving into crossword puzzles.
“We spent ample time cooking on the trek. You can bring a variety of gourmet items with you in the winter. I packed steaks, potatoes, vegetables, porridge, raisins, salted peanuts, dried fruit, dried meat, crispbread, cheese, honey, and jam,” she shared.
The Ascent of Halti
Among the many landmarks they noted along their journey was the unusual Saivaara fell. But the trek’s pinnacle was the well-timed ascent of Halti.
“With snowfall predicted for the afternoon, we began our summit climb at five in the morning,” Jonna recalled. “When we reached the top, the weather was breathtakingly clear. It felt incredibly special to witness the sunrise, especially knowing I once stood atop Saana, imagining what it would be like up here.”
Upon descending Halti, the group returned to the hut just as the snow began to fall—a timing that could not have been better.
“The nights were stunning; we were treated to the northern lights and a sky filled with stars,” she said.
Reflecting on their six-day adventure, Jonna found everything had unfolded perfectly—weather and all.
“No one sustained injuries; we only battled a few blisters, but those were easily managed.”
While Jonna doesn’t have plans for a long trek this year, she does look forward to introducing her friend to the wilderness, guiding her on a night spent outdoors in the Torronsuo area.
“I’m excited to show her what nature has to offer since she’s never camped outside before,” Jonna smiled.
Eager for More
Whether planning a grand trek or a cozy night under the stars, Jonna’s love for the wilderness continues to guide her adventures, reminding her of the beauty found in both the wild and the company we keep in it.