A Journey to Winter’s Embrace in Lapland
I’ve yet to whisk my children away to the snowy wonder of Lapland to meet Father Christmas, but like many, I yearn for a seasonal escape. This time of year often feels overwhelmed by festive chaos—parties, endless wrapping of gifts—but there’s an undeniable allure in the thought of finding solace in a vast, serene landscape blanketed in snow.
Thus, I find myself in Finland’s far north, just 180 miles from where the land gives way to the icy reach of the Arctic Ocean—a remote corner pointing its frozen fingers toward the North Pole.
Last month marked the grand opening of the Galdu Hotel & Spa, nestled near the quaint village of Saariselkä and bordering the sprawling 985-square-mile Urho Kekkonen National Park.
Though Saariselkä is home to a mere 350 residents, this small town buzzes with winter tourism, boasting around 300 accommodation options, primarily family-friendly resorts with whimsical names like Northern Lights Village and Santa’s Hotel, mingled with cozy ski lodges.
In a refreshing turn, a new breed of Arctic hotel has emerged in recent years, focusing on modern design and wellness, and Galdu is a prime example of this trend.
While my children remain at home, I’m taking someone more deserving of a break: my 74-year-old mother. Our intentions? To indulge in gentle Arctic experiences like snowshoeing, husky sledding, and leisurely sleigh rides. Elves, however, can’t be entirely avoided; they cheerily wave at visitors along Saariselkä’s roads—but they’re notably kept away from the local pub; after all, nothing disrupts the festive spirit quite like an overly cheerful, tipsy elf.
After a brief flight to Ivalo, the northernmost airport in Finland, we are greeted by a sea of British families, all decked out in matching “Christmas in Lapland 2025!” sweaters, their little ones bubbling over with excitement. My mum, donning her eye mask, drifts off to sleep, undisturbed by the rhythmic kicks of an eager toddler in the seat behind.
As we begin our descent, the pilot’s voice crackles over the intercom—“Look to your left; the aurora borealis is making an appearance!” The cabin dims as we scramble to catch a glimpse of the ethereal light show winding across the wintry sky. It’s our first encounter with this wonder, a moment brimming with enchantment, though we both silently hope for a more intimate experience later, rather than craning over tray tables.
Upon landing in Ivalo, we’re met by Jermu Mehtäjärvi, the suave co-owner of Galdu alongside his wife, Nora Stahlberg Mehtäjärvi. “The snow isn’t as plentiful as I’d hoped,” he muses during our 25-minute drive south to Saariselkä, gesturing toward the deceptively snow-covered landscape. “Just a couple of weeks ago, it was a bitter minus 27 degrees Celsius; now it’s warmed up to a balmy minus two.”
The chill in the air is still palpable to us, blending with the encroaching darkness typical of the polar night, where weeks may pass without the sun gracing the horizon. Early December days here begin with dawn at 10 a.m. and close with darkness settling in by our surprisingly late lunch at 2:30 p.m., leaving us perpetually feeling half-awake.
Discovering a Modern Alpine Oasis
As we arrive at the Galdu Hotel, its dark timber and flickering candlelight creates a stunning first impression. Jermu and Nora greet us warmly in the expansive open-plan lobby, where floor-to-ceiling windows beckon us to gaze out upon the serene forest.
With its modern decor, punctuated by cozy Scandi touches—plush white chairs, soft sheepskins, and whimsical furniture—there is an air of contemporary elegance. We nestle beside a lively fire, glasses of bubbly in hand, soaking in the ambiance of our Arctic surroundings.
What You Need to Know:
- Location: Galdu Hotel & Spa is situated in Finnish Lapland, near Saariselkä.
- Who Will Love It: Spa enthusiasts, snow adventurers, and food lovers alike.
- Cost: A three-night all-inclusive stay starts at £1,766 per person, including a sleigh ride.
While Saariselkä features a small downhill ski resort and over 200 kilometers of popular cross-country ski trails just outside Galdu’s door, this hotel aims to cater specifically to couples, focusing on wellness and cuisine, and positioning itself as “the northernmost outdoor spa hotel” in the world.
With 29 rooms and two suites, each span 25 square meters and are adorned in soft grays, dark wood accents, and expansive windows offering views of the tranquil forest. Our suite showcases an oversized bathtub, cozy wool blankets, and airy armchairs, imbued with the calming scents of the Finnish brand Hetkinen. However, we find ourselves slightly disappointed by the absence of a kettle or coffee machine.
To access the spa, we must brave the snowy path leading to the saunas, steam cabins, and distinctive pools—including a chilly 5°C plunge, a larger 25°C swimming pool, and a hot tub—all open to the frosty winter air.
The wood-fired and electric saunas, set at a moderate 60-70°C, might feel slightly cooler than the higher temperatures favored by the sauna devotees, but staring out at the plump-eared squirrels frolicking among the trees as the fire crackles is a healing experience in itself.
Then comes the highlight—the food. This culinary affair is a journey worth returning for. The Lappish menu, though concise, offers a rich tapestry of local flavors. The king crab soup is a velvety delight, the seared trout with pickled fennel and yuzu sour cream is light yet sophisticated, and slow-braised reindeer paired with goose liver is pink, rich, and utterly delectable. For the main event, I opt for the reindeer tenderloin smothered in almond cream and black pepper-liquorice sauce—the tenderness rivals that of the finest marshmallows (£40). Our dessert, a creamy custard accompanied by pecan and sea buckthorn sorbet, is equally divine (£14).
Lunchtime provides simpler fare—creamy salmon and potato soup one day, beetroot the next—served with homemade sourdough slathered in decadent brown butter. For beverage, I choose a hearty Lapland beer, while Mum sips a refined Copenhagen herbal tea. She declares it to be the best food she’s ever tasted, a high compliment given she once lived in the gastronomic haven of the Dordogne.
Breakfast dazzles as well, offering an extravagant spread featuring local cheeses, meats, pastries, and vibrant sea buckthorn water. Fluffy pancakes and mushroom omelettes are made to order, welcoming us into the day with warmth and comfort.
One small critique—while the dining room exudes a sense of order, with tables lined up facing one another, the atmosphere veers into canteen territory. A few dividers or more intimate corners could enhance the experience. Additionally, the saunas are notably turned off during the day, although excellent massages are available in a cozy relaxation room, perfect for winding down after active mornings (£105 for an hour).
Yet, with eagerly anticipated adventures awaiting, we soon embark on a snowshoeing excursion with Lapponia Tours. Our guide, Arto Aspila, arrives in a minivan to fit us with better winter boots than our own, steering us to Lapponia’s charming A-frame base in the heart of Saariselkä.
Stepping into the soft, powdery snow, we find ourselves enveloped in a quiet beauty. The air resonates with the sounds of nearby huskies, and the sky transitions into an enchanting peach hue. I’ve forgotten how captivating the Arctic backdrop can be during the day.
After a leisurely hour and a winding 3-kilometer trek through magical woods, we return to base, and just like that, it feels like night-time again.
Chasing the Northern Lights
That evening, we reunite with Lapponia for an aurora-hunting adventure, heading by minibus to a location far removed from the town’s—albeit minimal—light pollution. “Tonight, our only adversary is the moon,” quips our cheerful guide, Milla Juvonen.
As she drives, curiosity mounts: “I’m going to the UK soon for a holiday,” she shares. “Oh really? Where?” we ask. “Birmingham,” she replies, and we exchange puzzled looks. “For Crufts,” she explains, revealing that her dog is a reigning champion in Finland and other Nordic countries, vying for glory in the UK.
However, tonight our focus is on the aurora—the Sami people refer to it as “fox’s fire,” a nod to an enchanting folklore tale of a fox whose tail caught fire while frolicking in the woods.
Just a short walk from the national park brings us to a spectacular display. The sky is painted with ghostly tendrils of light, and at Pitkäjärvi Lake, we venture out onto its frosted surface, captivated by nature’s dazzling dance overhead.
Aurora tourism can often be a game of expectations versus reality. Jermu shares that many visitors are disheartened when their experiences don’t quite match the vibrant, surreal imagery often seen in photographs. Indeed, the auroras often appear more spectral and pale to the naked eye, softened by the vastness of the night sky—but no less mesmerizing.
As bedtime comes, I look out one last time. Pulling back the curtains, I step onto the balcony, and there it is—a celestial ballet of green light cascading across the heavens. It’s a moment that reaffirms my decision to book the balcony suite facing north.
The following morning, I seize the opportunity to take advantage of Galdu’s complimentary taxi service to the slopes. At this time of year, only one slope is operational, but I revel in a few hours of exhilarating snowboarding. Meanwhile, Mum takes to the shops, gathering holiday treats of reindeer pâté and steaming mugs of spiced glögi.
Later, we share the thrill of a reindeer sleigh ride, the crisp air dropping to a brisk minus 10°C. Wrapped in layers of fur blankets, we settle in behind our reindeer, Rohkelikko—“The Brave”—awaiting the herder, Anssi Vaananen, who dons a red-trimmed poncho and furry hat.
As our sleigh glides through the snow, I can’t help but feel a pang of guilt for leaving the kids behind. Yet, watching my mother light up as Rohkelikko leads us along the picturesque trail makes it all worthwhile.
After an hour of merriment, we dismount to feed the reindeer dried lichen and enjoy hot blueberry juice warmed over a campfire. “Fire is the soul of outdoor life,” Vaananen remarks, gathering wood to keep the flames alive. He shares stories about the Sami, the native people of the region, and how his wife and daughter embrace this cultural heritage.
In Finland, around 300,000 reindeer are owned and farmed, a cornerstone of tourism and local tradition. However, Vaananen warns of predators—wolverines, which he describes as deceptively bear-like in appearance and notorious for wreaking havoc among reindeer herds.
In search of culinary adventures, we dine that night at Fieno, one of the many eateries owned by Jermu’s family. Mum, now quite enamored with reindeer, orders spicy reindeer sausage pizza and hearty reindeer lasagna, both offering flavors that reflect the chill of the season.
Before our journey to Lapland comes to an end, we snap a photo beneath the temperature display at Ivalo airport, now registering a chilly minus 18°C. But our exploration of Finland is not yet over; we have a Finnair flight that connects through Helsinki, allowing us to indulge in an additional day in the vibrant city.
Helsinki dazzles with its array of design stores and festive charm. At the St. Thomas market, we discover mossy wreaths and Christmas rice porridge, all vying for Instagram stardom with inventive flavor twists.
At Lapuan Kankurit, a chic sauna shop, I purchase a woven green sauna towel—perfect for our next adventure in Helsinki. We book a session at Furuvik, a charming private sauna housed in a fairytale-like wooden cabin, nestled among cozy neighborhood trees by the Baltic Sea, led by a specialist sauna guide.
Over the course of this communal sauna ritual, we are enveloped in warmth, surrounded by the sacred spirit of Finnish sauna culture. In this moment of serene connection, we find ourselves learning traditional practices, patting our bodies with birch leaves and indulging in a symphony of scents as beer and spices mingle in the steam. It feels quintessentially Finnish, marking the beginning of our Christmas celebration.