Finland frequently earns top honors as one of the happiest countries in the world, a designation reaffirmed just last week. A visit to its charming capital, Helsinki, sheds light on the reason behind this acclaim. Renowned for its stunning architecture, proximity to nature, and navigable layout, the city is teeming with delightful surprises that captivate visitors.
The Sauna Culture
Sauna culture is so embedded in Finnish life that in 2020, UNESCO recognized it as an Intangible Cultural Heritage. With over 2 million saunas across the nation, public saunas in Helsinki vibrate with social energy, reminiscent of a pub in Fitzroy or Paddington on a Friday night. One such spot, Löyly, features a striking, angular design housing three wood-fired saunas, along with a bar and a stepladder for those daring enough to plunge into the chilly Baltic Sea. Another popular destination, Allas Sea Pool, is an inviting seaside suntrap adorned with floating wooden decks, busy with sun-loving Finns enjoying its lap pools and various saunas. When winter blankets the sea in ice, you can even skate right past its frozen surface.
The Coffee
Finns are the world’s foremost consumers of coffee, downing an impressive average of four cups a day. Filter coffee reigns supreme here, typically enjoyed alongside a cinnamon scroll. For those with a taste for cappuccinos, a visit to La Torrefazione Lasipalats near the city center will impress with its barista talent. If atmosphere is your priority, indulge in the plush velvet armchairs of Robert’s Coffee, nestled within a beautifully designed Art Nouveau building by Finnish architect Lars Sonck.
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The Island Hopping
The Helsinki Archipelago is home to over 300 islands, all boasting verdant forests and sandy beaches that offer a unique escape from the Nordic chill. Many islands are just a short ferry ride away from Market Square. At quaint Lonna Island, adventurous souls can traverse slippery rocks for a dip in the sea, then enjoy hazy sunset views from a wooden sauna. History enthusiasts will revel in visiting Suomenlinna, a fortress island founded in 1550, known as the “Gibraltar of the North.” Guided tours weave through tunnels and fortifications, narrating Finland’s intriguing history from Swedish and Russian control to its independence in 1917.
The Local Food
Dining in Helsinki starts with irresistible sourdough, predominantly made from the region’s rye—a key Finnish crop. Main courses typically highlight cold-water fish such as Arctic char, paired marvelously with vibrant berries like the elusive orange cloudberries from northern Finland. Don’t overlook the opportunity to savor reindeer; the tender reindeer steak at Skörd, complemented with earthy mushrooms and tangy raspberry jus, stands out. Meanwhile, smoked herring, served on a comforting layer of creamy mash at Adlerfelt on Suomenlinna, transforms traditional peasant food into an unforgettable culinary experience.
The New Hotel
The NH Collection Grand Hansa, which debuted in 2024, is the luxury brand’s first property in Finland, skillfully integrating two heritage-listed buildings from the early 1900s. It pays homage to its historical roots while incorporating modern Scandinavian design elements, featuring 224 rooms and plush velvet lounges in stylish loft-style settings. Amenities include a Finnish sauna, a steam room, and a well-equipped gym—arguably the best I’ve encountered in a hotel. Conveniently positioned a short walk from the transport hub of Central Station, the NH Collection Grand Hansa’s prime location is another point of appeal.
The Transport System
For Australians accustomed to a more chaotic public transport experience, Helsinki’s transportation system is a revelation. Buses, trams, ferries, and trains all operate with impeccable punctuality, in pristine vehicles that glide seamlessly throughout the city. Utilizing Google Maps to chart your course is straightforward, or you can opt for the handy HSL route planner app. A 40-minute train journey from the lower level of Helsinki Airport to Central Station can reach speeds of up to 150 km/h and, even with stops, outpaces an Uber ride at a mere €4.40 ($7.30). For cycling enthusiasts, bike lanes are ubiquitous, and Finnish motorists are known for their courtesy towards cyclists.
The Walking Tour
Meander the cobblestones with a friendly local guide from Happy Guide Helsinki, who will help you explore the city’s most iconic landmarks in three engaging hours. Sample fried vendace or bear meat jerky with cloudberry jam at Helsinki’s oldest indoor market, the Old Market Hall. Felipe, our guide, intersperses the history of the city as we pass by City Hall, Uspenski Cathedral, and Central Library Oodi. However, as is often the case with the best walking tours, we find ourselves indulging in bites and sips more than mere sightseeing. For more information, visit happyguidehelsinki.com.
The Long Drinks
One of Finland’s most beloved beverages emerged serendipitously during the 1952 Olympics in Helsinki. With concerns about the swift serving of alcohol to jubilant post-WWII crowds, the government commissioned an innovative premixed drink of gin and grapefruit soda in a can, known as the long drink. Today, the Helsinki Distilling Company produces one of the finest variations. Initially established as a whiskey distillery in 2014, it’s the first to revive distilling in the city in over a century. A visit to the distillery allows you to explore the vibrant restaurant and café hub nearby, known as Teurastamo, a former slaughterhouse transformed into a lively district.
The Architecture
Finnish architect Alvar Aalto, revered as the “father of modernism” in Scandinavia, left an indelible mark on Helsinki. A guided tour through his 1930s house and studio reveals how his innovative designs inspired ubiquitous furniture and glassware, including favorites found at Ikea. His modernist influence resonates in the glass and steel curves of the Helsinki Central Library Oodi. The city itself is a fascinating tapestry of architectural styles, showcasing pastel-hued Art Nouveau apartment blocks from the time of Swedish rule, interspersed with intricate gilded roofs of Byzantine-Russian buildings, including the majestic Uspenski Cathedral.
One More Thing
Australians might find themselves curious about how Finns endure the icy grip of winter nights when daylight seems fleeting. Nature provides a striking contrast during midsummer, rewarding locals and visitors alike with nearly endless daylight in regions north of the Arctic Circle. In Helsinki, while the sun does briefly dip below the horizon during late June and early July, it lingers long into the evening, giving rise to enchanting “white nights.” Whether lounging on the beach until 11 p.m. or reveling in various outdoor festivals, this glorious season presents a fantastic opportunity to visit.
The writer visited as a guest of Helsinki Partners and Visit Finland.