Published March 23, 2024, 07:00 AM
As I stepped off the small plane and inhaled the brisk air at Kittila Airport, a chill swept through me. At 9 a.m., the stars still twinkled in the sky, a testament to the remote beauty of Finnish Lapland, where the temperature had plummeted to a brisk minus 4 degrees.
Descending the gangway and onto the icy tarmac felt surreal. I know I’m in the minority when I say that my idea of fun involves basking above the Arctic Circle in January, but this polar night adventure had long been on my bucket list.
I reminded myself that while it was close, we weren’t actually experiencing a full polar night. That phenomenon—when the sun doesn’t rise for weeks—had concluded weeks earlier, and daylight was already stretching to a mere four hours. Still, close enough.
Before embarking on this trip, I faced incredulous questions from friends: “Northern Finland? In January? Really?” I, too, had been skeptical about how a nation known for long winters and pickled herring could perpetually be labeled the happiest country on Earth, according to the World Happiness Report. Yet, despite my reservations, Finland consistently came out on top—most recently in March 2024. What does that do to your circadian rhythms, I wondered.
Then I stumbled upon breathtaking images of fluffy frozen pines against cotton candy skies, dog sleds racing through unspoiled forests, and the auroras shimmering overhead. The allure was undeniable. I’m a visual traveler; all it takes is a captivating picture for me to decide where to go. And so, after much consideration, we decided to journey to Lapland, a region that encompasses parts of Norway, Sweden, and Finland.
The trip, not without its challenges—logistically and financially—placed me in the heart of even less sunlight than I experience at home in the Colorado Rockies. Still, I couldn’t resist.
Our itinerary included five exhilarating days of skiing, dog sledding, and, with any luck, witnessing the Northern Lights. On that first day, weary from travel, we made our way to the Levi Ski Resort under the fleeting daylight. While the sun remained hidden at lower elevations, up on the fell, we were bathed in golden light. The trees, frosted with ice and snow, resembled illustrations from a storybook. Though I had just arrived, the enchantment of the place began to envelop me, particularly when I spotted reindeer grazing in the snow.
So, what fuels Finland’s reputation as the happiest nation? The World Happiness Report, crafted by Gallup, the Oxford Wellbeing Research Centre, and the UN Sustainable Development Solutions Network, bases its findings on residents’ self-evaluations of their lives on a scale of 0 to 10. This year, Finns rated their happiness at 7.741—significantly higher than the U.S. and six points above the lowest-ranked Afghanistan.
As economist Jeffery Sachs observed in a CNBC documentary, “The idea is a good balance of life.”
Each year, Finland regains its crown, prompting a deluge of articles attempting to decode the underlying magic. Recently, a Finnish psychologist highlighted a community trust exercise involving lost wallets. Meanwhile, the tourism board touts the chance to behold the Northern Lights, a thriving sauna culture, and warm locals.
Our collective desire to analyze and quantify happiness seems innate; after all, we’ve sought it for millennia. Yet, as I spent my five days exploring the Arctic wilderness, immersing myself in the culture, savoring delightful cuisine, and being present in the moment, I sensed an undeniable magic at play.
The frigid air clung to me; I bundled up in layers and donned goggles to protect my eyes from freezing. It was madness, yet the thrill transformed my trip into one I’d cherish forever.
While the metrics neatly outline why Finns report higher happiness levels than Afghans, it’s a different challenge to compare them with neighboring Scandinavians. I’m yet to visit Denmark or Iceland, which also rank high in happiness, but I now understand how Finland made me feel—unquestionably happy. Here’s why.
1. Access to Nature is Paramount
As I traversed a frozen lake on cross-country skis, the icy winds cut through me, signaling it was time to turn back. The sky transformed into dusky pinks as I focused on the rhythm of my skis gliding on pristine snow. The trails around Levi were vast, offering an extraordinary skiing experience with families and couples embracing the outdoors, clad in retro ski gear, despite the creeping darkness.
In my research on Lapland, I was overwhelmed by abundant choices, with towns across northern Finland offering easy access to nature. After a few kilometers, we found ourselves sinking our skis into a snowbank, where we indulged in pizza and warmth.
One day, we skied to a reindeer farm, our pockets full of salty licorice, where we sipped cocoa before a roaring fire. Another day, we rushed down trails behind our pack of eager sled dogs, one of us steering while the other relished the ride. It was exhilarating to glide through the snow, harmonizing with our enthusiastic canine companions.
2. A Deep Connection to Heritage
Our introduction to Sami culture, an Indigenous group whose territories span northern Norway, Sweden, Finland, and Russia, began at Samiland, a UNESCO-registered cultural village. Here, we learned about Sami history and traditions while strolling through a replica Sami village with its charming live reindeer.
Reindeer herding is not merely ancestral but a vibrant aspect of modern Sami life. Remarkably, a significant 33 percent of Finland is designated for reindeer husbandry, but in Finland, EU citizens can also participate—though the industry remains predominantly Sami. This stands in stark contrast to how Indigenous cultures are often treated in the U.S.
That evening, we dined at Saamen Kammi, a traditional Sami hut. We gathered around an open fire, savoring foraged ingredients that reminded us of a bygone era, yet felt so integral to contemporary Finnish dining. We were treated to a showcase of Sami music and dance, demonstrating how this small town weaved its rich ancestry into daily life.
3. Delicious and Nutritious Finnish Cuisine
When I suggested this trip to my husband, I downplayed the culinary aspect. I never expected winter in northern Finland to be a food lover’s paradise, but I was entirely mistaken.
Helsinki Airport surprised us with an exceptional café, where we indulged in flavorful cardamom buns and lox-topped toast.
At Saamen Kammi, the dinner was an unforgettable feast: savory salmon soup, roasted reindeer, and dessert featuring local cloudberries. Each bite reflected a connection to the land, and I soon learned to love reindeer, transcending any guilt I felt for the adorable creatures I had encountered.
Another evening, we discovered a cozy spot run by a local reindeer herder. Candlelit tables surrounded by pelts welcomed us as we savored reindeer burgers and spiced mulled wine. Even our daily coffee endeavors—crafted on a snowmobile-pulled cart over an open fire—left me enchanted by the culinary landscape of Finland.
I returned home with bags of black licorice, transforming what I thought would be an adventure-focused trip into a delightful food journey.
4. Finding Joy in the Present
Initially, I wondered how the Finns managed to find joy amid the relentless winter darkness, but during our week in Lapland, I discovered that they embrace it wholeheartedly.
Each day, we witnessed locals not only utilizing every sliver of daylight but also going about their lives with smile. Finnish resilience reflected a shared philosophy: polar night is something to be experienced rather than endured.
With the glow of streetlights illuminating the snow and stars dotting the evening sky, I was captivated. My anticipation peaked as I began obsessively checking my Aurora app for predictions.
On our third night, a green glow appeared on my screen—a signal that the Northern Lights were making their debut. We dashed into the cold, and there it was: the lights swirling and undulating, creating a breathtaking display. For 20 enchanting minutes, we reveled in the wonder of nature.
On our journey back, we spotted a fox crossing the road—a not-so-subtle reminder of the Sami legend that the lights originate from a fox brushing her tail across the snowflakes. As the solar cycle reaches its peak in 2024, the chances of witnessing such beauty continue to draw intrepid travelers like me, seeking connection to the present moment.
After our adventures, we returned to our Airbnb to unwind in the sauna. In Finland, saunas are integral to life, with approximately one for every two inhabitants. With the steam enveloping us, we found solace in the simple act of disconnecting from the world and being present.
As we took to the skies on our flight home, the bright sunlight streaming through the windows struck me as jarring. I closed the shade and held on to the memories—cherished moments that would linger long after we left the wonders of Lapland behind.
Mikaela Ruland is the Associate Content Director for National Park Trips. This year, she is dedicated to exploring Europe, including skiing in the breathtaking landscapes of Zermatt and the Italian Dolomites.