In the heart of summer, Turku transforms into a lively concert hub, with outdoor performances happening nearly every day outside the majestic Turku Cathedral. The air buzzes with activity as vendors offer a delightful selection of locally sourced food and wine. A quirk of history emerged in 1995 when Finland joined the EU, faced with a dilemma: should it classify itself as a Nordic country entitled to heating subsidies or as a wine-producing nation akin to France and Italy? Ultimately, the decision tipped in favor of warmth, resulting in the unique labeling of homegrown grape wine as a “mild alcoholic beverage fermented from grapes.” This has spurred local entrepreneurs to experiment with regional fruits like lingonberries, cloudberries, and sea buckthorn—options slowly capturing the attention of sommeliers worldwide.
For those seeking a more conventional wine experience, there’s something for you as well. I enjoyed a leisurely hour in a deck chair, conversing with the skilled Vintners from Urban Winery Noita. They’ve found a clever way to sidestep regulations, hand-picking organic grapes from Burgenland, Austria. These grapes journey back to their facility in Fiskars Village, just 112 kilometers southeast, where they craft delightful natural blends of Riesling, Grüner Veltliner, and more.
Turku’s culinary landscape is also gaining international acclaim. The 2022 opening of Kaskis marked a milestone, awarding Turku its first Michelin star—the first for Finland outside Helsinki. This recognition led Michelin to choose Turku as the launching pad for its 2023 Nordic Countries Guide, a testament to the city’s rich food culture. Nestled cozily within an apartment building, Kaskis welcomes diners into a space where chefs and founders Simo Raisio and Erik Mansikka artfully combine pristine perch and pike with sustainably foraged ingredients, served on an inviting collage of recycled plates and Mansikka’s exquisite handmade ceramics. With his red Michelin star tattoo and infectious smile, Mansikka embodies the aspirations driving Turku’s dynamic culinary scene; his presence is felt even amidst displays of kitchen wares across town.
You’ll catch him often at Turku Market Hall, a bustling hub where local vendors supply both home cooks and top-tier restaurants with fresh produce and artisanal goods. On my visit, I intended to explore the market’s 19th-century red-brick halls before settling down for lunch, but the enticing aromas wafting from Herkkunuotta—a charming shop-cum-lunch counter—pulled me in. There, the energetic chef-fishmonger Johan Hellsten and his team whip up seafood dishes on the spot while wrapping up freshly caught crab and massive shrimp. On that particular day, their offerings dazzled with perch soup generously flecked with fragrant dill, local cold-smoked trout delicately cured, and reindeer prepared in two delightful ways: a savory mousse-filled tartlet and thinly sliced, cold-smoked slices paired with vibrant horseradish.