On days like this, winter in Finland unveils its most enchanting side. With hardly a breeze and the sun beaming down from a clear sky, sunglasses become more than just a fashion accessory; they’re essential. By now in the season, those golden rays feel pleasantly warm against the skin, even as the air hovers around minus ten degrees Celsius (14 degrees Fahrenheit).
At Lake Tuusula, located in southern Finland, a breathtaking panorama of pristine white snow stretches out as far as the eye can see. A well-maintained, marked “ice route” invites skaters, skiers, and sun-seekers alike, having been carefully plowed and prepared for optimal outdoor enjoyment. Groomed cross-country tracks run just beside the plowed paths, providing space for everyone to explore.
On sunny weekends, Lake Tuusula welcomes as many as 10,000 visitors.
It’s as if the entire nation has gathered here, with skaters gliding past in a seemingly endless stream, gradually becoming mere dots against the vast, white canvas.
We join the throng as we head towards the lake’s northern end, passing Finnish flags fluttering proudly above the ice. People skid by on skates, kicksleds, skis, and bicycles, while some brave souls cling to snow kites, their skills on display. Further along, ponies trot across the frozen surface, adding a unique charm to the scene.
The Vuorinen family enjoys frequent visits to the frozen lake. Jonna and Ilkka, along with their children Ahti and Hugo, live nearby in Järvenpää.
Though the area teems with life, it never feels congested. The ice route spans approximately 80 meters (87 yards) in width and stretches a generous seven kilometers (4.5 miles), providing ample room for everyone.
Every so often, a plane makes its way overhead, a reminder that Helsinki-Vantaa Airport lies just 20 kilometers (12 miles) away.
Ice routes abound
Visitors can rent Nordic ice skates (touring skates) and kicksleds along the shores of Lake Tuusula. Wilderness guide Helmi Turunen from Retkiisi offers equipment and guiding services.
Before the days of cars, frozen lakes served as vital shortcuts for Finns traveling by sleigh to church or visiting neighbors across the water. While those historical journeys are long gone, the ice now beckons residents and tourists alike, inviting them to enjoy the stunning scenery and invigorating winter air.
In recent years, the number of maintained ice routes has blossomed across Finland. Social media buzzes with postings about these routes, ranging from short paths to more extensive ones like the impressive 17-kilometer (10-mile) trail that winds through the scenic Punkaharju in eastern Finland, shaped by the last Ice Age.
Sini Saarenharju, Mari Ojala, and Seija Kuparinen take a moment to relax at the Café at Vanhankylä Manor during their ski outing. The total ski track stretches 14 kilometers (8.5 miles) from one end of the lake to the other.
Undoubtedly, the ice route on Lake Tuusula stands out as one of the most cherished in southern Finland. This popularity can be attributed to the dedicated work of the Ice Observation Men—a volunteer team that maintains the marked path and provides up-to-date information on conditions. Their commitment can take them up to 20 hours on snowy days.
Juha Jäntti, an Ice Observation Man and esteemed tourism entrepreneur, played a crucial role in establishing the ice route, which has been a well-tended feature for nearly a decade.
“The idea is that the ice route is for everyone, fostering a sense of community among visitors,” Jäntti explains. “With ample space, there’s a chance for everyone to relish the beauty of winter.”
Prioritizing safety
“There haven’t always been this many people at Lake Tuusula,” says Päivi Tähtinen. “The ice route’s popularity is largely due to its meticulous maintenance.”
Even when the ice appears solid, a healthy dose of caution is wise. The Ice Observation Men consistently remind visitors that conditions outside the marked route can be deceptive; weak spots may exist near reed beds, jetties, or drainage outlets.
“We can’t guarantee the ice’s strength everywhere on the lake,” Jäntti cautions.
At Lake Tuusula, many enjoy this message responsibly. Among them is Päivi Tähtinen, skillfully maneuvering her kicksled alongside her dog, Marcel. Around her neck, ice picks hang as a precaution—essential tools to assist anyone who might fall through.
While instances of falling through the ice are rare on the established path, slips can occur frequently. And there goes another skater, tumbling down. Accidents like these are simply part of the lively atmosphere on a busy day. Helmets are also recommended for skaters to ensure safety.
Activities for every taste
Fjällbo Jetty is a well-known landmark on Lake Tuusula.
The iconic triangular structure of Fjällbo Jetty rises into view from a distance. Groups gather along its edge, engaging in spirited conversations. Nearby, students from Tuusula Upper Secondary School run a café, where visitors can grab hot juice and doughnuts.
Some of the cafés pop up as needed. Continuing on from Fjällbo towards Onnela, we stumble upon an open-fire grill operated by Juha-Matti Tamminen, where chicken and mushroom skewers sizzle enticingly. He also offers a much-praised lentil and sweet potato soup.
Juha-Matti Tamminen serves lentil soup and chicken skewers at his grill on the shore at Onnela.
Tamminen shares that he recently had the idea to set up this grill and managed to get it going on short notice. The response has been overwhelming, with a steady line of customers eager for a warm meal. As the sole operator, he occasionally has to pause service to chop more firewood when supplies run low.
What truly sets the Lake Tuusula ice route apart is its ability to cater to a wide array of interests. Looking for a sledding hill? You’ll find it. Yearning for a sauna followed by a plunge into icy waters? Absolutely.
Numerous spots along the Lake Tuusula ice route offer food and drink. The Café at Vanhankylä Manor radiates a welcoming atmosphere.
Just across the shore from Fjällbo, slightly further north, lies Vanhankylänniemi, where a lakeside sauna awaits. Here, visitors can experience the thrill of diving into a hole cut in the ice, a traditional Finnish practice. Nearby, Vanhankylä Manor offers handicrafts for purchase and features a lovely café.
The Café at Vanhankylä Manor is a favorite stop for skiers and outdoor enthusiasts alike.
For those looking to add a touch of culture to their day, a visit to Halosenniemi—once home to renowned artist Pekka Halonen, famous for his landscape paintings—offers a perfect opportunity. The striking log-built wilderness studio, visible from the marked route, invites visitors to step away from the ice and into a world of artistic inspiration.
Explore more ice routes in Finland
- Punkaharju ice route in eastern Finland features breathtaking scenery and is maintained daily. At 17 kilometers (10 miles), it ranks among Finland’s longest routes, subject to a fee.
- Koli National Park in eastern Finland provides access to one of the country’s most famous landscapes, with forested peaks flanking a 2.5-kilometer (1.5-mile) ice route on Lake Pielinen.
- The Porvoo ice route traverses the sea ice of southern Finland, varying in length with no official operator.
A brief guide to ice safety
- Always check local conditions and warnings before heading out onto the ice.
- Avoid weak areas near currents, shorelines, under bridges, and open water. Stay clear of shipping lanes.
- Travel with a buddy whenever possible.
- Wear ice picks around your neck—they’re essential tools for pulling yourself out if you fall through.
- Keep your phone protected in a waterproof pouch.
- If you’re interested in Nordic skating (long-distance skating), be sure to take a course first.
By Anitra Rönkkö, photographs by Sami Heiskanen, February 2026


