At the G8 summit in Edinburgh last July, President Jacques Chirac couldn’t help but share a jest at the expense of Finnish cuisine, telling President Vladimir Putin and Chancellor Gerhard Schröder that it rivaled British cuisine in its lack of appeal. Fast forward to late June when Prime Minister Silvio Berlusconi, addressing an international audience at the inaugural European Food Safety Authority in Parma, confessed to having to “endure” Finnish food. One can’t help but wonder: on their fleeting and expensive visits to Helsinki, where could these gentlemen have dined to form such harsh opinions about a national cuisine that, while occasionally understated, can be a genuine delight for both gourmands and the more hearty eaters alike?
My own appreciation for Finnish food has developed rather late in life. However, since marrying someone from Finland, I have traversed the country with my senses now finely attuned to more than just its renowned architecture, music, military history, winter sports, and breathtaking scenery.
Have Chirac and Berlusconi ever taken a moment to sit in a cozy Helsinki café, sipping the city’s exceptional coffee while enjoying a rye bread sandwich, a Karelian pie, or perhaps a delicious butter bun or cinnamon roll? Have they explored the bustling markets lining the shores of Finland’s picturesque cities, sampling fresh and smoked perch, pike, whitefish, and salmon? And has the delightful Arctic cloudberry ever graced their palates? It’s hard to say. What is certain, however, is that these gentlemen ought to have ventured into one of Helsinki’s esteemed restaurants before passing judgment on an entire nation’s culinary scene.
It’s amusing how our tastes can change as we encounter unexpected favorites. Take, for instance, Kalakukko—what some might simply call a fish pie, but it’s so much more than that. A herring and bacon pasty that’s downright delicious, sometimes made with perch or trout, and even with pork swapped in for bacon. And then there’s Jansson’s Temptation, a dish that’s astonishingly rich. Named after a rather ascetic parson, this baked delight features potatoes, onions, anchovies, butter, breadcrumbs, and cream—a tempting concoction that belies its namesake’s pious reputation.
And we can’t overlook Vorschmack, a dish beloved by wartime hero Marshal Mannerheim. He frequented the elegant Savoy restaurant in Helsinki, designed by the modernist architect Alvar Aalto and established in 1937. Today, one can sit at Mannerheim’s banquette and savor a hearty blend of lamb, beef, onions, salt herring, anchovies, garlic, and pepper, all served alongside sour cream, baked potatoes, and perhaps a shot of Marskin ryyppy—soldierly schnapps crafted from Mannerheim’s own recipe.
Here are five of my favorite dining spots in Helsinki, where the food does the city proud:
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Cosmos (Kalevankatu 3, +358 9 647 255): This Bohemian gem in the city center has been a haven for artists, writers, and journalists since 1924. Its classic Finnish dishes remain unchanged, as does the family that has owned it for generations.
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Elite (Hesperiankatu 22, +358 9 434 2200): Established in 1932, this artist-favorite restaurant has played host to politicians, diplomats, and the city’s bright young things. Located in the stunning Reitz Building, it offers a dense collection of artwork and generous servings of Baltic herring and mashed potatoes or onion steak.
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Danger of Groves (Mechelininkatu 39, +358 9 440 833): Tucked away from the tourist trail, this award-winning restaurant is celebrated for its classic Finnish offerings and innovative dishes, all complemented by an impressive wine list.
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Wrong (Ludviginkatu 8-10, +358 9 681 1370): Set within the magnificent former offices of Finland’s biggest daily newspaper, this trendy restaurant is led by the popular TV chef Jyrki Sukula. While its menu is predominantly Mediterranean and Asian-inspired, Sukula’s team excels at traditional Finnish fare as well.
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Haves (Eteläranta 16, +358 9 6869 5660): A stylish seafood restaurant housed in a grand, historic sea captain’s residence near the harbor, this establishment boasts Juuse Mikkonen, who was named Finland’s Chef of the Year in 2004.
Clearly, the culinary landscape of Helsinki is far richer and more inviting than Chirac and Berlusconi gave it credit for.