We rolled into Rovaniemi just as the evening settled in, after a lengthy 12-hour journey from southern Finland. Our route wound us through the quaint towns of Ostrobothnia, offering a glimpse into the region’s charm. While the night train from Helsinki to Rovaniemi might offer a more restful passage without the need for a car, our travels would take us further north to Suomussalmi and Hossa National Park in the Kainuu region, making the car our best choice for this adventure.
Our hotel, located near the tranquil banks of the Ounasjoki River, welcomed us after check-in. The evening was resplendently clear, beckoning us for a stroll along the water’s edge.
Our Walk at a Glance
- Starting Point: Jätkänkintila
- Distance: 2.4 km
- A loop from Jätkänkynttilä Bridge via Ounaskoski Bridge and back
- Time: Approximately 30 minutes
- Route: Entirely on a paved pedestrian and cycling path
- Highlights: A sandy beach perfect for swimming and breathtaking river views
We followed the riverside path to the iconic Jätkänkynttilä Bridge, Rovaniemi’s most beloved landmark. I couldn’t help but reminisce; my family has visited Lapland on caravan trips for years, and crossing this bridge on foot felt like a rite of passage. Below, we spotted a wide sandy beach, curiously almost deserted, offering a peaceful panorama.
A quick fact about the Jätkänkynttilä Bridge:
The Finnish name Jätkänkintila translates to “Lumberjack’s Candle.” This type of log fire, known as a “Swedish torch” in English, is created by standing a log upright and making vertical cuts to allow it to burn like a tall candle. Rovaniemi’s bridge spans 320 meters, with pylons that mimic these distinctive log-candles, each crowned with an electric “flame” adding a warm glow.
We strolled down to that same beach, enjoying the gentle ambiance of the small park beside it. Meanwhile, the campground adjacent to the river was packed to the brim, with caravans and cars from Finland, Norway, and Germany dotting the landscape.
Crossing another bridge brought us back to our initial side of the river, where we continued our leisurely walk back to the hotel, delighting in the vibrant bouquet of wildflowers lining the riverbank, while sand martins swooped and soared above.
Rovaniemi has a certain appeal, but if I were a first-time visitor to Lapland, I might steer my compass a bit further north. The city has gained a reputation as a tourist hub, often coupled with elevated prices. In my own travels, I’d recommend smaller, less commercialized locales like Muonio, Inari, Ylläs, Saariselkä, Salla, or Pyhä-Luosto. These places boast genuine Finnish fells and an authentic taste of Lapland, without the overwhelming presence of tourism that characterizes Rovaniemi. Having spent eight years in various parts of Lapland, I can attest to the fact that true adventure in this region arguably begins once you cross the latitude of Sodankylä.
Still, if you find yourself exploring by car, Rovaniemi makes for a worthwhile stop, no matter where your journey leads next.
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