In commercial collaboration with Visit Puolanka, Puolanka municipality, Paljakka, UVM project, co-funded by the European Union
Article by Auli Packalén
Nestled in the heart of Kainuu, Paljakka Strict Nature Reserve is home to one of Finland’s largest contiguous old-growth forests. Here, a serene trail winds its way through the majestic embrace of spruce giants, some nearly 500 years old, and the resilient, snow-weighted trees that define the northern hills. For families looking for a peaceful getaway, the cozy Ilves wilderness hut in a sheltered stream valley serves as a delightful day-trip destination.
Paljakka Strict Nature Reserve Trail, Puolanka
- Location: Check the map for directions.
- Route: Begin your journey with a 2.5 km walk on the Ilveskierros trail which leads to the boundary of the Paljakka Strict Nature Reserve, where the main Paljakka Strict Nature Reserve trail (7 km) begins.
- The Ilveskierros itself is an independent loop trail not traversing through the strict nature reserve.
- Campfire site: Yes, at the Ilves wilderness hut.
- Arriving by car: Use the Pirunkirkko car park via Holstintie road, Puolanka.
- Alternative route: Drive from Latva village to Löytöjärventie and follow it to its end (about 3.8 km), where you will find a turning point to park your car. From there, it’s a 2 km walk to the Ilves wilderness hut.
- Public transport: There is currently no public transport access.
- Highlights: Pristine hill landscapes, ancient old-growth forests, towering spruces, and bogs.
- Difficulty: Moderate.
- Important: Visitors must stay on marked trails within the strict nature reserve. Walking is permitted only on foot, snowshoes, or skis along the designated path.
As a long-time admirer of the northern landscapes, I have often sought out the tranquil embrace of Lapland, either alone or with my family. The pandemic years afforded us the chance to explore Kainuu more deeply, and eventually, we fell for its charm so completely that we bought a holiday cottage there. Over time, my affection for Kainuu—its rolling hills, dense forests, shimmering lakes, and warm-hearted people—has only grown. The shorter travel time compared to Lapland certainly helps.
My years spent in the forests of Kainuu have cultivated within me a profound appreciation for old-growth woodlands. Although scattered pockets of untouched forest exist throughout Kainuu, this region boasts larger expanses compared to southern Finland. On a bright early summer day, I set out to discover one such gem in Puolanka—home to the revered Paljakka Strict Nature Reserve.
I had first learned of Paljakka’s ancient trees from a friend who spent a summer holiday nearby. Drawing inspiration from their experience, I added Paljakka Strict Nature Reserve to my bucket list, eager to witness one of southern Finland’s largest pristine forests.
I’m well aware of the strict rules governing these protected areas, intended for conservation and research. While some reserves are off-limits to all but scientists, Paljakka is accessible to the public. A loop trail traverses the reserve, but visitors must stay strictly on it. To embark on the full circuit of approximately 7 kilometers, one must first complete an additional 2.5 kilometers each way, making for a total trek of about 12 kilometers.
A Symphony of Birdsong En Route to Ilves Wilderness Hut
On my visit in May, the birches in lower Kainuu were just beginning to burst with small leaves, but around Puolanka—nestled at a higher elevation—the trees were still shyly unfolding their buds. I set out from the reserve car park, while my husband planned to cycle in from Vuokatti, taking gravel roads that meander through Sotkamo and Ristijärvi to the trailhead.
For the initial 250 meters, the connecting trail traces the contours of a road before turning eastward. The path is wide and spacious at the beginning, perfect for walking side by side. Yellow blazes mark the route on the trees. A short while later, I reach the boundary of the strict nature reserve, although the trail stays immediately outside it for a bit longer.
As I cross the charming Ilvespuro stream, the trail becomes narrower, occasionally steepening as it climbs toward Latvaara hill. Although still outside the nature reserve, the forest on this ascent is already ancient and wonderfully diverse. Beard lichen drapes gracefully from the branches of spruces, and as the sun breaks through, it creates a luminous backdrop. The chorus of spring birds fills the air, and thankfully, there are no pesky midges to contend with yet.
Ilves Wilderness Hut
- A wilderness hut (kota), campfire site, and outdoor toilet.
- This facility is located just outside the boundaries of the strict nature reserve.
- It serves as one of the rest stops along the Ilveskierros trail—other stops include shelters at Löytöjärvi and Pirunkirkko. Do note that if you venture from the hut onto the Paljakka Strict Nature Reserve trail, there are no rest shelters along that route.
After a couple more kilometers, the path begins its descent into the Ilvespuro stream valley, nestled between Latvaara and Holstinvaara hills, where the reserve’s loop trail winds along slopes and summits. I had looked for the wilderness hut on the map prior to my departure, but the Ilves hut, tucked away in the stream valley, surprises me with its welcoming aura. The campfire site and outdoor toilet are both clean and well-kept, creating a cozy stop even in blustery conditions.
A pleasant smoky aroma wafts out from the door of the spacious, tidy hut. Typically, I bypass rest shelters, but when my children were younger, snack breaks and roasting sausages over a fire were always a highlight of our outings. The Ilves hut and its surroundings offer a magical playground for kids, with ancient trees, the meandering stream, and rustic structures that evoke adventure.
Entering Paljakka Strict Nature Reserve
Leaving the Ilves hut behind, I cross the bridge spanning the stream, stepping into the eagerly awaited Paljakka Strict Nature Reserve. A mix of solemnity, reverence, and curiosity washes over me. This untouched land has remained a sanctuary for centuries. Established in 1956, this forest has existed for millennia.
The loop trail within the reserve begins just a couple of hundred meters past the Ilves hut. I choose to navigate clockwise. Initially, the forest is surprisingly open and airy. Fallen trees lie in abundance here, suggesting a history shaped by natural forces. At one point, I muse that perhaps a forest fire had once sculpted clearings in this terrain.
Spruce reigns supreme in this forest. In this rime ice zone, many trees have succumbed to the weight of snow and ice, their tops snapped off. Amid the towering candle-topped spruces, gnarled and twisted trees stand, while birches and rowans occasionally punctuate the landscape, bringing fresh green to an area still shaking off winter.
As I near the summit of Holstinvaara hill, I catch a beloved scent: the unmistakable aroma of northern bogs. While bogs in southern Finland are fragrant, the scent of a northern bog is uniquely intoxicating.
At the 370-meter summit of Holstinvaara, I discover several bogs and a small pond, Leililampi. The boggy terrain is crisscrossed with well-maintained duckboards, and the unnamed bog nestled between Vaaranpäällyssuo and Leililampi is particularly picturesque. The summit forest is a marvel in itself.
Beyond Leililampi, the spruce trunks grow wider, the moss carpet becomes thicker, and the atmosphere grows more profound and silent. A glance at a forest age map later confirms my instincts: I’ve reached the section with the oldest trees. Some of these spruces may be as old as 500 years. I recall reading that Finland’s tallest spruces are found right here.
At the easternmost point, the trail hugs Kilpisuo bog, rising a few dozen meters above it. The narrow path, flanked by ancient trees and fallen trunks, can easily blend into the forest if you lose focus. Thankfully, the dark red blazes on the trees guide me back on track.
My friend was spot on to describe this place as extraordinary. In the eastern corner of the reserve, there exists a magnetic presence and deep silence. I must admit, though, that the constant weaving through the undergrowth in search of the trail can be somewhat frustrating. Glancing at my watch reminds me of my husband waiting on the gravel roads. Next time, I resolve to return without a clock ticking in the background.
Stepping from the land of the spruce giants, I descend toward Kilpisuo bog, sprawling northward. Dark clouds are gathering in the south, and with thunder looming, I know I must keep moving. Just as I step off the duckboards and into the sheltering trees, the first drops of rain begin to fall. As I peel off my rain jacket moments later, I notice a movement in the branches of a nearby fallen tree—perhaps one of the reserve’s long-term residents, curious about the rustling. Could it be a moose?
Returning to the Ilves hut, my GPS watch records the reserve loop at seven kilometers. Most references quote its length as six. Especially on the eastern segment, which spans about 1.5 kilometers, the pace slows considerably, so it’s wise to plan for additional time. For families, the walk to Ilves hut and back is an easily manageable endeavor; even a brief foray into the reserve reveals the awe of the tree giants.
With thoughts of my husband waiting by the car and dark clouds swirling overhead, I pick up my pace for the final 2.5 kilometers back to the car park. The route is mostly downhill, allowing the distance to pass quickly. As I change clothes next to the car, the first heavy raindrops start to fall. Moments later, a torrential downpour descends, and we find ourselves amid a thunderstorm.
In the car, I relive the adventure, painting a vivid picture of the unique spruce forest for my husband—an experience unlike any other. I share my impressions of the silvered, standing dead spruces I encountered at Paljakka, curious to learn about their stories. My husband, a loyal fan of Kainuu’s gravel roads, shares his satisfaction with his own approximately 100-kilometer journey, largely devoid of paved roads, and with the wind often at his back.
As we drive home, I’m already plotting my next visit to Paljakka’s ancient woods. Ideally, I hope to come during the midsummer, when the trail through the strict nature reserve is said to be adorned with immense ferns and the rare northern blue sow-thistle—an uncommon delight found abundantly around the hills of Puolanka.
Paljakka in the Midsummer Abundance
To my delight, just a month later, I find myself back at Paljakka Strict Nature Reserve, spending the midsummer week in Kainuu while my husband works remotely. With my previous visit feeling rushed, I’m determined to immerse myself fully in the reserve and explore Kilpisuo and the forest’s oldest sections.
Having barely stirred from its winter slumber in mid-May, Paljakka in late June greets me with a vibrant summer palette. My favorite flower, the bunchberry, lines the Ilves trail, accompanied by ferns framing the path in abundant splendor. The overcast sky casts a perfect light for capturing the vividness of green—the kind of richness that seems otherworldly.
The Ilves hut looks even more inviting than before. Eager to plunge into the strict nature reserve, I turn right at the trail’s starting point. Today, there’s no rush as I cross over the dark-watered stream I missed during the rain on my last visit. Stepping out onto the open expanse of Kilpisuo, I take a moment to appreciate the sweeping silhouette of spruces surrounding the bog and the rich colors of summer.
Ascending from Kilpisuo leads me into the forest’s oldest sections, a journey that starts around five kilometers from the trailhead. Ferns flanking the path often completely obscure it from view. Thankfully, the red route markers are reliable. Although the alpine blue sow-thistles aren’t in bloom yet, I think I can spot them.
Some monumental spruces stand alongside the path, their trunks so massive two adults would struggle to encircle them hand in hand. Other impressive individuals dot the landscape, reminding me of the importance of adhering to the reserve’s rules as I navigate the terrain.
Originally, I had planned to turn back once I reached the oldest trees and return to the Ilves hut. But the enchantment of this place compels me to keep going. With no time constraints today, I decide to complete the full reserve loop. When I reach Holstinvaara hill, I’m grateful for the choice, as the tranquil bogs in their summer hues captivate me completely.
And again, my distance check reassures me: the loop trail indeed measures close to seven kilometers. Seven kilometers of unparalleled Puolanka hill landscapes and ancient spruce forests await those willing to explore.
Exploring Routes at Paljakka Strict Nature Reserve in Puolanka
S: The route from Pirunkirkko car park to the Ilves wilderness hut and back is approximately 5 kilometers. This section features a mix of wide, firm paths and narrower trails, mostly easy for walkers. Part of the Ilveskierros trail, it is marked with yellow blazes. An alternative starting point is found at the end of Löytöjärventie road, adding a 2 km walk to the Ilves hut.
M: The journey to the Ilves hut, combined with the strict nature reserve loop trail, totals approximately 12 kilometers. Contrary to common claims, the loop itself is closer to 7 kilometers. Note that portions of the strict nature reserve trail can be slow-going, so it’s wise to allow ample time to enjoy the surroundings. Route markers are dark red.
XL: After completing the Paljakka Strict Nature Reserve trail, you may extend your adventure with the Ilveskierros loop trail (12 km), marked in yellow. This route circles around Löytöjärvi lake before returning to the Pirunkirkko car park. The Ilveskierros remains entirely outside the strict nature reserve boundaries.
A Noteworthy Reminder: Puolanka is part of the Reindeer Herding Area
How to Act When Encountering Reindeer? Check this helpful checklist to be prepared.