“Can we go to another too hot, too cold?” my eight-year-old son Zac asked, excitement bubbling in his voice when I told him we had two hours to fill before dinner.
“They make me happy,” chimed in my 11-year-old daughter, May, her eyes bright with anticipation.
Just 45 minutes later, we gingerly descended the metal steps into the tranquil, pine-fringed waters of Lake Näsijärvi at Rauhaniemi Folk Spa. Just a week prior, we learned, these very waters were still frozen.
Now, the frigid temperature hovered around 3°C. As I submerged, I closed my eyes and gasped, my shoulders slipping beneath the icy surface. Zac’s delighted squeals echoed as we both raced back inside to the welcoming warmth.
We find ourselves in Tampere, a Finnish city often likened to Manchester. As a Mancunian with a passion for journalism, this comparison piqued my interest.
Like Manchester, Tampere’s industrial roots are evident, with its signature red-brick factory buildings now transformed into vibrant museums, shops, and eateries. And while Manchester boasts its football rivalries, Tampere has its own fierce competition, with Ilves and Tappara hockey teams battling for local supremacy.
A Family-Friendly Sauna Experience
Tampere proudly claims the title of “The Sauna Capital of the World,” a distinction awarded by both the Finnish Sauna Society and the International Sauna Association in 2018. The city is home to nearly 70 public saunas in and around its bounds.
I assumed my children would dip in, tire quickly, and want to move on. But to my surprise, they were captivated, drawn in by the exhilarating highs and lows of extreme temperatures.
While Tampere is a popular getaway for Finns, it remains largely undiscovered by British travelers. In 2024, a staggering 87.5 percent of overnight visitors were domestic, while just 0.6 percent hailed from the UK.
Yet, British families are missing out. Having embarked on more than 20 city breaks with my children—from London to Venice and countless destinations in between—I found Tampere to be an unexpected gem. It combines the hallmark features of a major city—engaging museums, diverse dining options, and effective transport links—with the calming embrace of nature, nestled between two lakes and adorned with green spaces.
Despite its reputation for high costs, Tampere proved surprisingly affordable. Our spontaneous sauna adventure set us back only €11 (£9.30) per adult and €5 (£4.23) per child; little ones under seven enjoyed free access. The most extravagant sauna we tried, the sleek Flou sauna by Lake Pyhäjärvi, was €13.50 (£11.46) per person, without a child discount—and it became the kids’ favorite.
Dining on a Budget
In the heart of Tampere, many restaurants offer excellent set lunch menus on weekdays. Restaurant Tampella, housed in a former factory by the Tammerkoski river rapids, serves daily changing hot lunches or salads for €13.70 (£11.63) and steak of the day for €19.90 (£16.89), including tea or coffee.
At Sauna Restaurant Kuuma, where we enjoyed stunning views of Lake Pyhäjärvi through expansive windows, we delighted in a €13.90 (£11.79) lunch menu featuring a salad starter, main course options (flank steak or veggie tacos), and help-yourself biscuits, sweets, and hot drinks to finish.
For dinner, the kids reveled in the options at Bonker Moodcourt, an underground food hall adjacent to Tampere train station. We sampled dishes from three different outlets—vegan treats from Hoax (with starters starting at €4 or £3.39), tacos from TNT (€13.50 or £11.45 for three), and pizza from Slicemonger (slices from €4.50 or £3.82)—then spent time playing shuffleboard and retro arcade games in Noob.
Unique Family Attractions
Tampere also boasts distinct family attractions. In the Finlayson area, we tested our skills at the Spy Museum, where we all proudly earned our “spy diplomas.” The children were thrilled as our guide shared tales of spies who nestled into their surroundings—all part of the fun for just €10 (£8.48) for adults and €6 (£5.09) for children aged 6-17, plus €5 (£4.24) for the agent test.
Not to be missed is the world’s only Moomin Museum (€29 or £24.58 for a family ticket). We explored the enchanting world created by the eccentric author, ventured into an interactive Hobgoblin’s hat that cast hilarious shadows, and marveled at the intricate five-floor model of the Moomin House—all while commemorating 80 years since the first Moomin book was published.
Embracing Nature
The Moomin tales emphasize the wonders of nature, a sentiment echoed at Tampere’s Pyynikki Ridge. We climbed the 26-meter Pyynikki observation tower (€2 or £1.70 for adults, €1 or 85p for children) and savored views of the city’s pine forests, sparkling lakes, and towering chimneys. Zac confronted his fears by abseiling (€35 or £29.67) down the structure before we treated ourselves to the café’s renowned “munkki” doughnuts—rich with cardamom and dusted with sugar, and often deemed Finland’s finest, at €3 (£2.54) apiece.
Burning off that sugar high in the surrounding forest, we paused to listen to the rhythmic tapping of a woodpecker. I recalled a quote from Moominpappa that we had come across the day before: “The world is full of great and wonderful things for those who are ready for them.”
Getting There
Cathy Toogood was a guest of Visit Finland and Visit Tampere.
Cathy flew with Finnair, offering direct flights from Heathrow, Manchester, and Edinburgh to Helsinki throughout the year, with up to six flights daily from Heathrow.
Several airlines provide direct flights from the UK to Helsinki.
Trains from Helsinki to Tampere take about 90 minutes.
Where to Stay
The Courtyard by Marriott Tampere City offers rooms starting from €79 or £67 (for Marriott members) or €83 (£70) for non-members. One-bedroom suites accommodate up to three guests, with the option for a rollaway bed.
For More Information
visitfinland.com