Food
When in Helsinki, there’s nothing quite like indulging in a fish plate from a local stall at the Kauppahalli, the Old Market Hall that sits invitingly by the harbor. After a few invigorating laps in the pool and a brisk dip in the icy waters of the Baltic at the Allas Sea Pool, it’s my go-to treat. If you’re in the mood for a more formal dining experience, duck into Kolme Kruunua, a charming neighborhood gem in Kruununhaka. This nostalgic eatery beautifully preserves its 1950s decor while dishing up Finnish classics like hearty meatballs and succulent reindeer.
For those seeking a contemporary atmosphere, Löyly is a spectacle to behold. This modern sauna complex, owned by Finnish actor Jasper Pääkkönen, boasts a menu that features his renowned salmon soup, made with sustainably farmed fish. Alternatively, you can simply unwind on the deck, sipping a glass of wine while taking in the breathtaking seascape.
Inspiration
One of my favorite spots in the city is Oodi, Helsinki’s central library. It’s a delightful space that feels like a living room, where families gather in the children’s area, students find inspiration, and visitors savor a moment in the café. Beyond books, you can borrow all sorts of useful items—I once grabbed a power drill to hang some artwork at home. It’s a wonderfully sustainable alternative to buying one outright.
Equally inspiring is Sompasauna, a public sauna with a relaxed, unisex dress code—feel free to wear as much or as little as you like! Another serene spot is the Kamppi Chapel, known as the Chapel of Silence. Nestled in the heart of downtown, it’s adorned with smooth, curved alder wood and won an international architecture award in 2010. This minimalist space offers a reprieve from city life, making it a worthy alternative to Finland’s tranquil forests.
Neighbourhood
Kallio, situated on the city’s eastern side, has a unique edge with its eclectic vibe. While it may feel a bit rough around the edges compared to the polished downtown, it’s brimming with vintage shops, health-food spots, record stores, and diverse cuisine from all corners of the globe. The view from Kallio Church stretches across the city down to Observatory Hill, offering a picturesque glimpse of urban life.
Just northeast of Kallio, you’ll find Teurastamo, a former abattoir now transformed into a hub of vibrancy, complete with cafes, bars, markets, and even a distillery—because, in Finland, a sauna is a must-have! The neighborhood boasts a range of traditional saunas, and a short walk will lead you to the likes of Kulttuurisauna, Kotiharjun Sauna, and Sauna Arla.
Green Space
Lapinlahti is another gem, a serene park beside the water perfect for leisurely strolls with friends. The former psychiatric hospital has blossomed into a vibrant hub of small businesses, cafes, and an art gallery. I often stop by Café Metsäpaahtimo and grab a loaf from the Danish artisan baker at Primo Bread. Venturing out to one of Helsinki’s numerous islands is also a treat; Suomenlinna, a UNESCO World Heritage site, is captivating, while Pihlajasaari, found to the west, offers a more tranquil escape.
Nightlife
Bardot, a charming little cocktail bar in downtown, is a must-visit, where you can savor their Nordic gin fizz crafted from Arctic Blue Gin and sea buckthorn. If you’re looking for something quirky, Chihuahua Julep is a delightful spot where vintage furniture sets the stage for delicious cocktails. To enter, you simply ring a bell and surrender your mobile phone, encouraging genuine conversation in an age of screens—what a refreshing concept! For those who crave live music and a laid-back atmosphere, Siltanen in Kallio is the place to be.
Stay
For a comfortable stay, look no further than Hotel Fabian in Kaartinkaupunki, where “comfort” double rooms start at €102. This lovely boutique hotel has met 60% of the city’s “Think Sustainably” criteria for accommodations and is ideally situated for exploring the Design District’s artisan shops. Another excellent choice is the Folks Hotel, which opened two years ago in a refurbished train workshop in Konepaja. Family rooms from €138 feature playful yellow bunk beds that are sure to delight kids.
Heidi Johansson has called Helsinki home for over 20 years. After six enriching years as a tour guide, she now works with Helsinki Partners, the city’s marketing and investment agency. Her passions span travel, gastronomy, literature, and the arts.