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“It’s no accident that Finland ranks as the happiest country in the world—after all, it boasts the highest number of saunas per capita,” said Jukka, eagerly listing the myriad benefits of sauna therapy: enhanced circulation, radiant skin, and even a lower risk of dementia. “Sauna therapy elevates serotonin and dopamine levels,” he explained. “It’s like a healthy version of MDMA.”
In 2020, UNESCO elevated Finland’s sauna culture to the prestigious list of Intangible Cultural Heritage of Humanity, placing it alongside celebrated traditions like Turkish coffee, Argentinian tango, and the French baguette. The diversity of public saunas in the Nordic nation is nothing short of breathtaking. Some offer sleek luxury akin to Beverly Hills spas, while others have a more grassroots, communal vibe. You can find clothing-optional saunas, floating lake saunas, and even those with gourmet restaurants attached. The modest fees, often just a few euros, make daily visits a common practice for many Finns.
But the joys of Finland extend far beyond the serene experience of sweating it out. Charming fishing villages dot the Baltic coast, featuring windswept harbors, cobblestone streets, and cozy candlelit cafés. In Helsinki, you’ll discover Michelin-starred dining at prices that are refreshingly reasonable compared to other Nordic capitals. And after indulging in a detox session, you can savor pints of Karhu beer, delicacies like reindeer tartare, and generous swigs of aquavit.
Tampere | Helsinki | Porvoo
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Tampere
Once dubbed the “Manchester of the North,” Tampere served as Finland’s industrial powerhouse. Today, this charming university town has earned the title of the Sauna Capital of the World. While coastal hubs like Helsinki, Porvoo, and Turku were once under Swedish dominion, Tampere lies several hours inland, exuding an unmistakably Finnish essence.
Saunas
Saunas in this region boast a history stretching back approximately 10,000 years. Originally, people carved pits into the tundra, draped them in animal hides, and heated stones at their centers. The Rajaportti sauna, established in 1906, holds the title of the oldest public sauna in Finland. Here, a dedicated saunamestari (sauna master) maintains a birch-fired oven, infusing the space with a warm, forest-like scent. Between sessions of löyly (Finnish for sauna steam), patrons unwind in a cozy lounge, partaking in light snacks and craft beer.
At Saunaravintola Kuuma, you can immerse yourself in breathtaking views of Lake Näsijärvi through floor-to-ceiling windows while sweating it out. After your sauna, take a chilly plunge in the lake—winters often leave the waters just above freezing, with a delicate crust of ice to break through. The exhilarating rush from this post-sauna dip is invigorating, to say the least. Kuuma also doubles as a popular brunch spot, serving up a buffet featuring smoked fish, Finnish cheeses, and charcuterie.
Located on the outskirts of Tampere, Rauhaniemi Folk Spa is nestled among dense forests by Lake Näsijärvi and is a beloved haunt for university students. The sauna buzzes with social energy—especially in winter when a bar kiosk springs up right on the frozen lake. Just steps away, the lake’s brisk waters beckon after a sauna session. Don’t miss the unique yurt sauna, inspired by age-old Finnish traditions, and consider indulging in a vihta treatment. In this ritual, an attendant playfully massages your body with bundles of birch and juniper leaves, releasing essential oils that boost circulation and promote healing.
Where to Eat in Tampere
Villit ja Viinit captures the essence of New Nordic cuisine, sourcing its ingredients solely from local purveyors. Instead of citrus, expect cocktails infused with crushed wildflowers to offer a unique acidity. The bar features rare Finnish gins and craft beers. If you spot it on the menu, try the whiskey seasoned with foraged chanterelle mushrooms—a sip that encapsulates the magic of the Baltic forest. During my visit, I indulged in a dish of porridge layered with pork belly, drizzled with chive oil.
At Ravintola Nonni, named after the Finnish slang for “it’s all good,” the playful menu takes an international spin on Asian and Italian flavors with Nordic ingredients. My Arctic cod, swimming in a fragrant tom yum broth, was paired with a Thai-style salad that featured kohlrabi in place of tropical papaya. The standout of the evening was the “fish hoax”—a brilliant vegetarian interpretation of smoked salmon. The wine selection dazzles, spotlighting rare bottles from Georgia and Southern Italy.
Notably, Finland holds the title for the highest coffee consumption per capita in the world. At Kahwe Coffee, baristas treat their craft with Olympic-level dedication, frequently showing off their skills at international competitions. Sourcing beans from Ethiopia and South America, Kahwe roasts them in-house, boasting an impressive collection of Geisha beans known for their delicate floral flavor. Though I leaned towards espresso, I found the pour-over at Kahwe to be particularly exceptional.
For those wanting to explore Finland’s rare ingredients through an imaginative lens, a dinner at Ravintola Apaja is a must. The restaurant, once a horse stable, now features cozy, exquisitely furnished dining rooms. Diners embark on a three-hour tasting menu, beginning and ending with a glass of Champagne. Chef Juuso Ahvenainen changes the menu about ten times a year, serving small plates that shine with the confidence of top-tier New Nordic cuisine—think smoked elk heart, sous-vide pike-perch, and pike ceviche topped with pickled lingonberries.
Where to Stay in Tampere
Tampere is a compact city, perfect for exploring on foot. The Radisson Blu Grand Hotel Tammer offers a central location just a short walk from the downtown area. Don’t miss the breakfast buffet featuring mustamakkara, a locally cherished blood sausage. A stone’s throw from the hotel, the Olympia Theater pulses with live music nearly every night. Finland’s rock scene is electric; the band performing during my visit had an energy that would have left even Mötley Crüe in awe.
Helsinki
Founded in the 16th century by the Swedish Empire to rival Tallinn’s maritime trade, Helsinki has blossomed into a stylish coastal city recognized as a leader in global sustainability. Here, neoclassical architecture coexists harmoniously with hip third-wave coffee shops, public saunas, and craft cocktail bars.
Saunas
Sompa Sauna, created by two hiking friends who lovingly restored an abandoned sauna, offers a clothing-optional and effortlessly laid-back atmosphere. There’s no entry fee, and the diverse array of visitors adds to its charm. Compact yet well-constructed, the saunas reach piping hot temperatures, inviting guests to cool off in the icy Baltic waters. Unlike many Finnish saunas, Sompa lacks a café, allowing patrons to bring their own drinks.
At the opposite end of the spectrum, USVA Spa within the Hotel NH Collection Helsinki Grand Hansa exemplifies sophistication. Clad in plush robes, guests sip artisanal teas brewed from Finnish herbs while indulging in high-quality skincare products. After a honey-salt scrub, my travel-weary visage felt rejuvenated, as though I’d shed a decade. The lounge showcases an impressive collection of Sami art and artifacts gathered during the owner’s travels across Lapland.
Löyly, one of Helsinki’s most iconic public saunas, brilliantly balances upscale design with a relaxed ambiance. The spacious main sauna, featuring family-friendly facilities and breathtaking views of the Baltic Sea, includes wall-mounted buttons to release steam at your command. For those looking for an authentic experience, smaller gender-segregated saunas can be found in the locker room. In winter, daring patrons can even brave the sea ice, making for a complete cycle of warmth, chill, and ultimate euphoria.
Where to Eat in Helsinki
The Room by Kozeen Shiwan received a Michelin star mere months after opening—a remarkable achievement for any chef. After honing his craft in acclaimed New Nordic kitchens, Shiwan returned to his Kurdish roots, crafting a tasting menu that spotlights the vibrant flavors of the Levant. With his striking golden hair and a grill that would make any chef envious, Shiwan regales diners with captivating stories behind each dish. After a few glasses of Champagne, I couldn’t help but proclaim, “You’re the Jimi Hendrix of gastronomy, chef,” and I meant every word.
At Restaurant Skörd, everything on the menu hails from Finland, including the fruit wines. Tucked away in a quaint locale, Skörd changes its offerings daily based on selections from the local farmers’ market. As a self-proclaimed food enthusiast, I found myself awed by unique ingredients like pickled salsify root and rowanberry coulis. While grapevines struggle in Finland’s climate, Skörd serves delightful wines crafted from subarctic berries. Their bilberry wine boasts an enticing flavor reminiscent of fruity Malbec, while their gooseberry bubbly is effervescent and reminiscent of a joyful kir royale.
Trilby & Chadwick, discreetly hidden behind an unmarked door, captures the elegance of an old-school speakeasy. Within its dimly lit walls adorned with oil portraits and vintage furnishings, patrons can savor inventive takes on classic cocktails, each named after literary greats. I dove straight into ordering a Bukowski and a Hemingway without even glancing at a menu. The establishment proudly maintains a no-photography policy, steering clear of social media’s obsession.
As a whiskey enthusiast, I always keep an ear to the ground for new distilleries, and the Helsinki Distilling Company stands out. Traditionally, Finland has leaned towards clear spirits, but this venture defies expectations with remarkable whiskey. Their Frontier Corn whiskey pays homage to Kentucky bourbon, made from a rare cold-climate corn variety. If only they had named it “Finntucky.”
Where to Stay in Helsinki
Solo Sokos Hotel Pier 4, positioned along Helsinki’s waterfront, embodies minimalist excellence through its use of Nordic spruce and Viitasaari granite. The floor-to-ceiling windows in each room offer panoramic views reminiscent of a cruise ship’s Lido Deck. Each room is equipped with an espresso machine, while breakfast treats feature an array of smoked fish, jams, and freshly baked bread.
Porvoo
Nestled less than an hour from Helsinki, the tranquil fishing town of Porvoo enchants visitors with its striking architecture, exquisite dining options, and refreshing sea air. Established by Swedish colonists in the 14th century, it stands as Finland’s second-oldest town, following Turku.
Sauna
A short drive from Porvoo leads to Kannonnokka Sauna, where visitors will be rewarded with a sauna ingeniously carved into a rock face. After your soak and a cold plunge, take in the Grottabacka forest’s beauty from the terrace jacuzzi. For a magical evening experience, visit after sunset, when the stars come alive after a leisurely sauna session.
Where to Eat in Porvoo
On a cozy cobblestone street, Restaurant Vår shines as a Michelin-starred gem. Chef Niko Lehto artfully melds coastal Finnish ingredients with gourmet influences from Italy, France, and Japan. During my visit, the tasting menu featured highlights like fresh scallops drizzled with juniper sauce and tempura pike-perch, crowned with vibrant roe. Afterward, I relaxed in the beautifully appointed dining room with a glass of jaloviina, a Finnish spirit blending brandy with grain alcohol.
For a more casual dining experience, Salt is a charming establishment dedicated to fresh seafood, tucked behind the town’s ochre-hued warehouses. Their salmon blini comes generously topped with salmon roe, showcasing the culinary influence of neighboring Russia. Finnish blini, heartier than their Russian counterparts, resemble small pancakes. Pair your meal with a draught of Borgå Pilsner, the local session beer.
Where to Stay in Porvoo
The Runo hotel provides a boutique experience just a short walk from Porvoo’s waterfront and its stunning cathedral, a cornerstone of Nordic Gothic architecture. The comfortable, intimate rooms create the perfect ambiance for a romantic escape, topped off by a complimentary sauna in the penthouse. Be sure to try the Salmiak liqueur, a bold black liquorice-infused digestif, at the lobby bar.
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